Have you seen all those cute closets on Pinterest? The ones that were closets but are now a new space like a reading nook or a home office? Well, today I’ll show you how you can give your closet a makeover by turning it into a reading nook!
Here’s the back story: My husband took the boys camping! Translation: A free weekend – by myself – peace and quiet!
{insert sound of hammers, jigsaw, table saw, and more hammering}
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Well, forget the quiet part, I decided to tackle another DIY project I have been thinking about for almost two years. I first got the idea after seeing this photo in Creative Home Magazine:
Kym, the homeowner, turned her son’s closet into a private nook. I thought, no problem, I’d complete this project in an easy 2 days. After all, how long can renovating one 6′ x 2′ closet take? During stopping points I could squeeze in a pedicure, swim some laps and possibly have a friend over for wine and some chat one evening. Truth be told, it ended up taking a full 3 days (and nights)!
So, here is the abbreviated (press fast forward on the remote) version:
My three year old has two full size closets in his room. And, yet, his toys were always strewn around the room. Here is my “keeping it real” BEFORE picture:
Last year I took the doors off one of the closets and put up some curtains so he could have a little hideaway. That was an easy task, but now for the process of turning the closet into a reading nook.
How to Turn a Closet Into a Reading Nook:
First task (after cleaning up all those toys, of course!) is removing hardware, demolition and patching holes. (This is where I found I didn’t know my own strength and ended up having to patch a larger drywall hole after trying to remove the closet cleats.)
Phew, glad that is done. Now comes the fun part, time to build!
Cut all your lumber to size, then build two frames. One for the base and one for the bench.
My base frame only had one center support since it didn’t have to hold much weight. The bench seat frame had two center supports at 2′ intervals.
Buy paint quality (almost smooth) plywood for the tops of the base and seat frames.
Here is a little trick for scribing the profile of trim or other obstacles onto your board. Use a compass and set the width to the same distance from the wall to the outside of my door casing. Then draw a line around the casing being careful to keep the compass perpendicular to the casing. Then you can cut out the profile with a jigsaw or coping hand saw.
See, perfect fit!
Next build the second platform the same way (with the exception of the extra center supports.) I highly recommend priming as much of the wood as you can before nailing it into place. It is easier to prime wood on sawhorses.
Use a level (both a carpenter’s level and laser level if you have them) and carefully level your bench platform before nailing it in. Then use framing nails to nail the platform into the studs in the closet. (Here are five ways to find studs without a studfinder.)
At some point the right hand side of my bench must have shifted while I was nailing, which resulted in a slight slope. Seriously, I really did level it! I even have the pictures to prove it! Shhhh, don’t tell anyone! My lesson learned is that next time I will either screw the frame in place to hold it or put a brace underneath to keep it from slipping.
Now is a good time to cut the foam cushion for the bench seat. If you haven’t heard, the best way to cut foam is with an electric carving knife! (Huge thank you to my friend and neighbor Karen for the use of her 1970’s electric carving knife.)
Install all the moulding, wainscoting and trim. I bought all my trim and decorative moulding at the Habitat for Humanity ReStore? Super cheap at $.50 (yes, 50 cents!) per linear foot! My total for all the trim was $18, and I still have two 6 ft. pieces left.
Before priming all your wood, caulk all the seams. Did you know that some of the moulding in your home, especially crown moulding, is usually made up of several different pieces and then caulked to hide the edges?
This is the Pretty Handy Girl’s tried-and-true caulking method:
- Squeeze out your bead of caulk.
- Run your finger along the bead to smooth it (then wipe your finger off on a rag.)
- Follow up with a slightly moist paper towel for a super smooth finish!
It’s easy to caulk like a pro if you follow my tutorial.
Once the caulk dries, prime all the wood and wainscoting.
After trying some Benjamin Moore paint swatches, I settled on a deep navy blue called “Symphony Blue”. I knew I’d need to use some tinted primer before trying to paint such a dark color on the light walls. Unfortunately our Ace Hardware was out of stock. Luckily George, my friendly Ace Hardware paint consultant, told me how to mix my own.
Isn’t the marble effect pretty! I used 1 part paint to 3 parts primer and stirred it up really well.
Once everything is dry, the painting can begin. I always use two coats of paint. (The only time I got away with one was by using Benjamin Moore Aura paint in our living room. But, I was going from a medium green to a slightly lighter green. Not a major change in color.)
So, are you ready?? The drumroll please…
Can’t you hear the Symphonic Chords playing?
The copper wall sconce was also from the Habitat for Humanity ReStore. I scored that gem for only $5! It has a cord that I snaked around the moulding and then plugged into the outlet just outside the closet. A tutorial on re-wiring the copper sconce with a white cord and adding a switch is poster here.
Plenty of storage bins for all the toys a three year old can hoard.
Star pillows were super easy to make with cloth napkins and fabric I had on hand.
Finally, a nook built for reading, sleepovers…
…or just hanging with big brother.
That’s all folks! Bye-bye!
Did you like this transformation? You’ll love more of my before & after makeovers in all the rooms of my home!
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