The Builder Depot Carrara Venato Hexagon Nero Strip Marble Mosaic Tile installed on bathroom floor

Saving Etta: Floor Tile Update

Saving Etta: Tile Flooring Update

Welcome back to another Saving Etta update! If you’re just joining, this is another progress report on my efforts to save a house built in 1900. The finish line is looming close, so be on the lookout for more updates to come. To get the back story and learn more about the Saving Etta project, you may want to start from the beginning.

Saving Etta - One Woman's Journey to Save a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

I’ve been dying to share the tiling update, because this is one of my favorite finishing materials to select. But, before tile installation, we completed a few tasks after the drywall installation update. All the walls were primed and sanded.

Then I had a lull in subcontractors on site, so I started painting some of the walls myself (and with the help of some friends) while we had none of the final flooring in. While this may have seemed like a good idea at the time, in the future I’ll wait until after the floors and trim are installed to paint. The first reason was I lost my painting subcontractors after they completed the priming and sanding. They moved on to another job and I never could get them back. Then there was a lot of touch up work needed after the flooring and trim carpenters finished. This meant I had to ask my interior painters to do a lot more touch up work than normal. All this to say that I have a new motto: “Vive y aprende.” Or Live and Learn. (Working with a fair amount of hispanic subcontractors has been great for boning up on my Spanish vocabulary!)

While I painted, I mulled over the benefits of hiring a tile installer versus laying the tiles myself. Originally I wanted to host workshops to teach local readers how to tile. Unfortunately, as the weather began to cool off, it became clear that I was running out of time to finish this house. I chose to outsource tile installation in the bathrooms and mudroom. But decided to install the laundry room tile and kitchen backsplash myself. I’m so glad I chose to hire a tile setter for the bathrooms. Not only did it save time, but he discovered potential issues that I wouldn’t have caught.

As soon as I could schedule the tile installation, I put it on my calendar and then scheduled the wood floor delivery during the week of tile install so the wood floors could acclimate in the house. Installing tile before wood floors made sense because wood is a lot easier to cut and manipulate than tile. But, it’s still important to account for the finished height of the wood flooring to eliminate a variety of floor heights (some variation is inevitable, but you can try to minimize the differences if you plan ahead.) With this in mind, we had to choose a variety of underlayment (backer board and uncoupling mat) thicknesses depending on each floor tile thickness. Most of the rooms we used 1/2″ PermaBase for the underlayment. But, the laundry room tile was extra thick and the only solution was to use an uncoupling mat which is thinner than any cement backer board I could find. (Here’s the full tutorial on how to install cement tiles!)

Installing uncoupling mat in laundry room

Now that you’re up to speed, ready to see the tiles I chose for the floors? Great, because I can’t wait to show you! Before we continue, I need to tell you that I worked with two generous tile material sponsors. These companies believed in my mission to save a historic house and graciously agreed to send me materials for the Saving Etta project.

While at Haven two years ago, I was introduced to Jeffrey Court’s Home Depot product line of tiles. They have a great variety of tiles for all different styles. Because I wanted to stay true to the historic nature of this 1900 house, I chose small vintage hex tiles for two of the bathrooms.

Downstair’s Bathroom Before:

The tubs for the upstairs and downstairs bathrooms were recommended by a designer at Wilkinson Plumbing Supply. They are a Bootz brand tub that is fiberglass but has a coating to make it feel like cast iron. I like how they sound like cast iron when you knock on them. They are also supposed to hold heat better than a standard fiberglass tub. The Bootz tubs are as lightweight as fiberglass and also lighter on your budget!

The shampoo niches I used are from here. The window over the tub is another Plygem Mira window with obscure glass. In hindsight, I wish I had ordered two more obscure glass windows for the other bathrooms. Instead, I installed some privacy film to cover those windows. (I’ll be sharing about this process in a later blog post.)

downstairs bathroom pre-tile

And now, I’m excited to show you the floor tiles we installed in that downstairs shared bathroom!

Downstairs Bathroom Floor Tile:

black stripes in small white hex tile field on bathroom floor

Don’t you love those stripes? I worked with my tile installer to create a striped pattern using Jeffrey Court Gardenia and Black Out Porcelain Mosaic Hex Tiles.

Jeffrey Court Small White and Black hex tiles in bathroom

Since this is a shared bathroom, I wanted it to have a basic unisex feel. Ultimately, I love how the stripes look like a rug on the bathroom floor. Apparently so does everyone else because we get lots of compliments on this floor.

Upstairs Bathroom Before:

The upstairs bathroom also has a tub, but this bathroom has two exterior walls. This meant we couldn’t install a shampoo niche because we had to leave room for insulation in the walls instead.

upstairs-bathroom pre tile

Remember how the downstairs bathroom has a unisex style? Well, this bathroom was my chance to insert some femininity into the design!

Upstairs Bathroom Floor Tile:

I still used the vintage hex tiles, but added a flowery look using Jeffrey Court Floral Terrace Mosaic Tiles.

Floral Terrace small hex tiles installed in bathroom

My tile installer was so thankful the flower pattern comes pre-assembled. He told me, he’s had to pick out and place the flowers in hex tiles on other jobs and that it’s a tedious task. Kudos to Jeffrey Court for making his job easier (and going easier on my budget.)

Jeffrey Court Tiles Floral Terrace on Bathroom Floor

Master Bathroom Before:

The master bathroom is the only room with a stand up shower. This meant I needed to coordinate the floor tile with the shower floor tile and wall tiles. (I’m going to keep you in the dark on those other tile choice for now, but stay tuned!)

master bathroom pre-tile

Ready to see this amazing floor? I’m so in love with this tile that I plan on using it in my own master bathroom.

Master Bathroom Floor Tile:

Check out this stunning tile from The Builder Depot. The official name of it is: Carrara Venato Polished Hexagon Nero Strip Marble Mosaic Tile, but I prefer “the most stunning hexagon tile I’ve ever laid eyes on!”

Beautiful marble outlined black white hex tiles in master bathroom

I fell in love with this tile when I saw it in one of our local tile showrooms, but the price was way out of my budget. When I saw my friends at the Builder Depot had it in their selection, I jumped on it immediately.

The Builder Depot Carrara Venato Hexagon Nero Strip Marble Mosaic Tile installed on bathroom floor

Aren’t you in love with that hexagon tile?

Laundry Room Before:

Long before I bought the Saving Etta house, I’ve longed to use black and white cement tiles somewhere.

laundry room pre tiling

Luckily, this laundry room presented the perfect spot to showcase Avington Tiles from The Builder Depot. Before you rush over to order all the cement tiles they carry, I need to warn you there is a bit more labor involved to install them. In particular, you have to seal them thoroughly before you can grout. This could mean 5-6 coats of sealant before it is no longer porous. (Here’s all the information you need to know about cement tiles and how to properly install them.)

Avington Cement Tiles laid in laundry room

I was glad I chose to personally lay this tile, because it took a little more time during installation. This freed up my tile installers to finish the bathroom floors, mudroom, and to start on the tub and shower surround tiling.

Black & White Avington Cement Tiles in Laundry Room

Mudroom Before:

This is the room that gave me the biggest challenge design-wise. That chimney you see in the background is the original 1900 chimney. I fought with almost all my subcontractors to keep it in the room. For this reason, I didn’t want a tile floor that would compete with the original beauty of the old brick. Other requirements for this tile were for it to be durable, easy to clean, and not show dirt.

pre-tiling-mudroom-floor

Ultimately my own mudroom played a big role in tile choice. We have dark gray tile in our mudroom and I love that it hides dirt fairly well.

Mudroom Floor Tile:

When I saw the Jeffrey Court Castle Rock tiles, I knew I had found a modern looking tile that would hide dirt and would also not compete with the chimney.

mudroom jeffrey court castle rock hex tiles

One of the things I love about this tile is that it has approximately twenty different printed patterns. Why does this matter? It matters because the tiles look more realistic when two patterns aren’t side by side (telling the world that they are printed instead of naturally occurring.) Despite the multitude of pattern, I separated all the tiles into piles with their twins. Then I made sure the installers chose from different piles as they installed them on the floor.

Installed Castle Rock Hex tiles gray in mudroom floor

Was it worth the wait? What do you think about all my floor tile choices? Any favorites?

Disclosure: I was provided with building materials from Jeffrey Court and The Builder Depot for the Saving Etta project. This allowed me to put in tiles more fitting with Etta’s history. I’m grateful for their support of this project. Despite their sponsorship, I was not told what to write. All opinions and ideas are my own. As always I’m very particular about the brands I chose to work with and you will always be notified if you are reading a sponsored or compensated post.

You’re Invited to the Saving Etta Open House

Do you live near Raleigh, North Carolina? If so, I’d love to invite you to the live open house tour of the Saving Etta project.

Yes, I know, I need to get you all caught up on the progression of the house. It’s been a whirlwind month of non-stop activity at the house.

If you just can’t wait for me, come on out in person! Here are the details:

Saturday, November 17th

11am – 5pm

1007 S. Person Street, Raleigh, NC 27601.

Please note, street parking only. Please be mindful of neighboring driveways.

Hope to see you there!

By the way, I have a secret I’ve been keeping from you. The house I saved isn’t really named Etta. (Shocker!) She actually has a name though. The Allen House is the official name and it is on the National Historic Property registry. We just put up this plaque this week, and now I can say she’s been officially saved.

Hope to see you on Saturday!!!

Hi-abuse purple drywall

Saving Etta Update Drywall Soundproofing

Saving Etta: Drywall Update + Reducing Sound in the Master Bedroom

One of the biggest progress milestones (besides the framing stage) in building a house happens at the drywall installation. This is the point where the structure starts to really feel like a house. This is also the point where the flow in the house becomes apparent. It also sucks not being able to walk through walls anymore. (Ghosts have it made, I tell ya!)

But seeing the drywall go up felt like a monumental step. I’m excited to show you this progress update and explain all the different types of drywall we installed. You may remember that Ask For Purple (a National Gypsum line of products) is a Saving Etta sponsor. And you might remember learning How Drywall is Made and What is Purple Drywall. Now I get to share with you the perfect spots for all those different types of drywall.

Purple XP® – We installed Purple XP® in the kitchen, all three bathrooms, and the laundry room. Any room that had water pipes were going to get this mold and mildew resistant drywall. I can’t begin to tell you how important it is to get rid of regular drywall in rooms that have a lot of moisture and/or water.

purple drywall in master shower
Master Bathroom

 

purple drywall in the shared bathroomShared Downstairs Bathroom

 

purple drywall in bathroomUpstairs Bathroom

 

laundry roomLaundry Room

kitchen purple drywallKitchen

(After this picture was taken, I asked my drywall contractors to tear out the two lower sections of regular drywall and use Purple XP drywall on the entire lower portion of the kitchen. After I explained to them why, they were happy to make the swap.)

 

Hi-Abuse XP® – This drywall was installed in the mudroom and the stairways because it is more resistant to scuffs and scratches. We all know entryways and stairways get the most abuse in a home. Hopefully the new homeowners will appreciate a stronger drywall in these areas.

hi-abuse drywall in mudroomMudroom

hi-abuse purple drywall

hi-Abuse drywall on stairwayStairway

Hi-Impact® XP® – The stairway is one spot I wish I had installed this strong impact resistant drywall. Little did I know that one of my carpenters was going to lose his grip on a big sheet of masonite as he carried it up the stairs. Unfortunately it left a big gash in the stairway wall. Oh well, we’ll patch it before painting. Normally the Hi-Impact wall board is made for garages, locker rooms, rec rooms, or anywhere holes are more likely to happen. For my next build, I’ll consider installing Hi-Impact in the stairways and behind doors (where door knobs frequently puncture the wall.)

SoundBreak® XP® – This is the innovative drywall product I’m most excited to share with you. SoundBreak is designed to absorb and dissipate sound between rooms and spaces. During construction, you can take measures to reduce sound transmission between rooms.

Below you can see the two layers in the SoundBreak XP sheets. They are separated by a polymer material specifically designed to absorb and reduce sound.

soundbreak purple drywall

I knew this would be an important product to use between the living room (with its tall ceilings) and the master bedroom. Anyone who has a house with tall ceilings knows that sound can bounce and magnify in these type of rooms. I wanted to make sure the new owners could rest easy when one person stayed up late watching Netflix and the other wanted to go to bed. Maybe SoundBreak needs to be marketed as a marriage saving product. LOL!

How to Install Purple XP SoundBreak for Maximum Sound Reduction:

Before installing the SoundBreak drywall, the wall has to be prepped for maximum noise reduction. To start, install insulation in the wall separating these two spaces. Don’t forget to add insulation up against the header joists and any spots that are open to the adjacent room. (You might want to leave a little note for your drywall installers to make sure they install the SoundBreak drywall on the correct walls.)

soundbreak sticky note

Now it’s time to add acoustic putty pads (affiliate link) to all the light switch and outlet boxes on this shared wall. I created a video to show you how to install the putty pads and finish prepping the walls before hanging the SoundBreak XP drywall.

Following these tips will help control the sound transference between two adjoining rooms. Hopefully the homeowners will appreciate the extra measures I’ve taken to give them a better night’s sleep.

three guys installing purple drywallInstalling the SoundBreak XP Sheets

SoundBreak drywall on master bedroom wall

Master Bedroom

I can’t wait to install the doors to hear how much of a difference the SoundBreak makes in this bedroom!

SoundBreak XP Retrofit® – For anyone who is upset that their home builder didn’t use SoundBreak XP, I have good news for you! There is a solution to your woes. You can add SoundBreak XP Retrofit to your existing walls and reduce the sound transference.

Gold Bond® Gypsum Board – I’m not going to lie, there is an added cost to using the specialty purple drywall. Therefore, non-water, non-traffic heavy, and non-noise sensitive rooms received Gold Bond Gypsum drywall to be easier on my budget.

drywall installed in living roomLiving Room as seen from the Kitchen

drywall installed in hallwayFront Foyer

drywall installed in the bedroomNorth Bedroom

I hope you enjoyed this Saving Etta update. Things are really moving along at the house. I’ll try to get you another update soon, but honestly we’re in major crunch time right now. I’m going to attempt to list the house before Thanksgiving. If you live in the local area (or don’t mind making the trip) I’m planning an open house style home tour that will be open to the public on Saturday, November 17th. I’ll be sure to share more details as soon as I have them.

In the meantime, have some patience with me until I can post the remaining updates for the Saving Etta project.

Drywall Update + Reducing Sound in the Master Bedroom

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for National Gypsum and Ask for Purple. I was provided with some complimentary products to use in the Saving Etta house. I was not told what to say, all opinions are my own. As always I only work with brands that I would use myself.

Off white farmhouse exterior house color, green door

I’m so excited to show off the colors I chose for Etta’s exterior! However, I’m equally excited to share with you a new paint line from Magnolia Paint by KILZ. (This post is a sponsored post for Magnolia Home Paint by KILZ.) 

When KILZ agreed to be a Saving Etta sponsor, I was incredibly excited because I have fallen in love with their paint. In fact, I had been testing the paints on interior and exterior surfaces for a while now. When the Magnolia Paint lines were first introduced, I had the honor of flying to Waco, TX to learn more about them. (I also happened to get the chance to rub elbows with these two famous house rehabbers. I can honestly say, Chip and Joanna Gaines are as down to earth as they are on TV.)

Chip and Joanna Gaines

During the trip I spent a fair amount of time talking to one of the scientists who worked on developing the paints. She assured me I’d love the coverage, durability, and low odor of the Magnolia Home interior paint. I was skeptical, but after trying the paint I was a convert. And I wasn’t the only convert: my painters loved the paint. They raved about it on multiple occasions, saying “This is really good paint. It has great coverage and doesn’t show overlap marks.” After the painting was finished, a neighbor came over to ask me about the paint I was using. He told me he used to be a painter and apparently my painters had struck up a conversation with him telling him this “new” paint was really good quality. The neighbor asked me what my painters were using and where he could get some.

Magnolia Home Paint Products:

  • Chalk Style Paint – This paint was a dream to work with. It’s much smoother than some of the competitors. After it dries, you can get rid of the chalky feel by lightly sanding with fine sandpaper and finish off with furniture wax. The pre-mixed color palette is beautiful and offers 44 beautiful hues. This is my new go to paint for furniture, home decor, and anything I would use a chalk style paint on.
  • Magnolia Home Interior Paint – I’ve been using another brand for years and swore I’d never use anything else, but the Magnolia Home Interior Paint is smooth, not too thick, and has great coverage on pre-primed walls. What I love most about this paint line are the multitude of colors to choose from. And, they all work well together. This made choosing colors for the interior of the house super easy (thank you Joanna for curating a cohesive color palette anyone will love.)
  • Peel & Stick Color Samples – If you follow me on Instagram, you probably saw all the re-useable peel & stick paint color samples I put up on the walls. This was the easiest (no mess, no fuss) way to choose colors. I will definitely order more to keep on hand for client consultations and my own person use.

Now, the secret I’ve been holding onto for months:

Magnolia Paint has an Exterior Paint Line!

  • Exterior Paint – KILZ  let me try out their new exterior paint before it was released to the public. Hopefully it will be available on store shelves soon. I know you’ll be as excited as I was to choose Magnolia Home paint for a home exterior. The latest update is it will be a few months before you can purchase Magnolia Home Exterior Paint from select local hardware stores or other suppliers. Be on the lookout! I can’t wait for you to try it. Maybe start by painting your front door a new color.

Speaking of front doors…

The front door color choice at Saving Etta was a carefully thought out decision. The colors had to appeal to a wide variety of buyers. In an area with multiple rival colleges (NC State, Duke, UNC, East Carolina University and a few more), I needed a color that didn’t pledge loyalty to any school. As a reminder, these are the color choices I was contemplating:

I love this color combination and would have chosen it for Etta except, she is a mere few miles from NC State. And NC State alumni would never paint their door Carolina Blue (or any color similar to it.) Unfortunately, I had to nix this idea immediately to risk turning off potential buyers.

After a brief time contemplating navy as a siding color, a navy blue front door felt like a good compromise. But, I worried it was too close to Duke University blue. Do you see why I was struggling with front door colors?

Next, I contemplated a pretty burnt orange color for the front door. The color looked beautiful in the fall. But, when I looked across the street and saw a neighboring house had an orange front door, I changed my mind.

This was the last color combo I contemplated. No local schools could lay claim to the green. And, I loved the freshness and timelessness of Magnolia Green. I think we have a winner!

Off white farmhouse exterior house color, green door

For weeks after the house was painted, many local neighbors would stop and tell me how great the house looked. It honestly felt like Etta had finally gotten her beauty back.

Exterior house colors for a 1900 farmhouse look

Siding Colors:

As I mentioned previously, the siding colors I toyed with were either a dark navy or light off white. Ultimately the white siding won. I wanted to choose a neutral off white color. But, I didn’t want it to be a yellowy cream color. I tested three Magnolia Paint colors: One Horn White, Locally Sown, and Blanched by painting samples on big pieces of foam board. For a few days I  moved them around the house. Ultimately, I liked Locally Sown the best. One Horn White had a slight green undertone and Blanched had a yellowy undertone. Locally Sown from Magnolia Paint was the perfect light greige white color.

Locally Sown exterior paint with True White trimMagnolia Home paint Locally Sown and True White

The trim color I chose was True White in semi-gloss. The photo below shows how it has some contrast with the siding color.

Off white house color, white trim

I must admit, I really love how it makes Etta’s attic vent louvers stand out as opposed to a traditional all white farmhouse color palette.

Magnolia Home Locally Sown paint with True White trim color

What do you think about the exterior paint choice? Do you like it? Will you try any of the Magnolia Home Paint lines soon? If you do, I’d love to hear your thoughts on it.

Triple A Construction house white and off white siding

Disclosure: Magnolia Home Paint by KILZ is a Saving Etta material sponsor. I’m honored to work with them on this project. All words and opinions are my own. I have not been told what to say. As always I am very particular about the sponsors I work with and you will be told if you are reading a post that has been sponsored or in which materials were provided. 

Saving Etta: Side Porch Progress

Saving Etta: Side Porch Update

While there was a lot of progress on the exterior of the house, the side porch was built after the interior walls were framed and shortly before the exterior siding was put on. Truth be told, the side porch build started way back before the framing process. In fact, if you really want to get technical, some thought went into the side porch materials before the back of the house was removed.

After the aluminum siding was removed, I could see the original wood siding that clad Etta’s walls. Oh how I wanted to keep the old siding, but most of the siding was filled with large holes, cracked, and brittle.

After assessing all the pieces that needed replacing, I would have needed new siding for 2/3 of the original house. Plus, the new addition siding would never match the old. It was an unfortunate decision, but I chose to remove all of it. Before the excavator arrived, I began carefully pulling the old siding off the house and saving any pieces that were in decent shape. I knew I could use them somewhere, and hoped it would be on the porch ceilings!

The siding (and copious amounts of bead board from the interior of the house) was safely stored away in a trailer for later use. Shortly after the demolition and foundation footers were poured, I began preparing for the side porch construction. While the concrete was still wet, I sunk anchor bolts into the fresh concrete footers under the side porch location.

After the mason finished building the foundation, I cut three 6×6 pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) posts and secured them to the anchors. Then I filled in around the base of the posts with drainage rock to prevent water from pooling around the posts. Although the lumber is moisture and bug resistant, I still didn’t want them sitting in direct contact with the soil or allowing water to pond around the bases. As someone who has seen the destructive capabilities of water, I’m always trying to build to prevent water from deteriorating the materials.

Speaking of being a quality builder, let’s talk about choosing materials for exterior building projects. One thing I knew early on was I wanted to retain the look and feel of this house built in 1900. Back in the day, composite decking didn’t exist. I knew I wanted to use real wood for the porches, that’s why I’m proud to introduce  Wood It’s Real as a sponsor of the Saving Etta project.

Wood It's Real Website

A few other reasons I decided to use Southern Yellow Pine for the decking:

  • Refinish: As the wood ages, it can be refinished and stained again as needed. When composite materials get scratched or faded, it cannot be sanded down.
  • Strength: Southern Yellow Pine is categorized in the soft woods category, but it actually has the strength of a hard wood. SYP is not like soft interior SPF (Spruce, Pine or Fir) framing lumber. They are two different species.
  • Temperature: One of the biggest complaints I’ve heard about composite material for decks is it gets hot! In fact, one of my carpenters told me he has tons of work at the beach replacing composite decking because it can warp from the heat of the sun.
  • Beauty: The wood grain is beautiful and takes stain nicely. Being a designer and artist, I like having hundreds of stain colors to choose from instead of a few stock colors.

Side Porch Progress:

I wish I had progress shots of the side porch build— but as often happened—I left for some errands and when I got back to the house “poof” a side porch had magically appeared! As you can tell by the picture below, I was super excited to find the porch built and the little storage closet framed in.

The floor boards are all pressure treated Southern Yellow Pine. To be able to stain the deck sooner, I requested kiln-dried deck boards from my lumber supplier. Regular pressure treated lumber has to dry completely before you can paint or stain it. (Otherwise, the paint might peel off as the wood dries out.)

Within a few days, the framers also installed this salvaged wood door. I wish I could say it came from Etta’s interior, but it didn’t. However, the door is from the same era.

I salvaged it from one of the houses on the old frat house row near NC State. All the houses were built from 1895 – 1920. Unfortunately they were slated to be torn down to make way for apartments. Luckily one of my local followers tipped me off to this travesty. She and I worked with the demolition contractor to salvage doors and windows from the houses. Sadly about a week or two after we salvaged things from the houses they were leveled. Honestly, I can’t drive by there because I want to remember the street with all those beautiful old houses on it. (Granted, they were all in rough shape.)

Sears & Roebucks House from Raleigh, NC near NC State - Maiden Lane

Back at Etta, the side porch didn’t get steps right away, so we used a little “DIY” step stool for months.

In the meantime, I went to my stash of salvaged siding and pulled out the best pieces to clad the porch ceiling. Although I knew they were likely painted with lead paint, I double checked my suspicions using a Lead Check test kit.

That red spot indicates the presence of lead paint. Which meant I needed to remove and seal any of the paint that was chipping off. Working outside with a mask and a tarped off area, I scraped the paint using a ProScraper hooked up to my ShopVac with a new bag and filter to capture all the dust.

After the majority of the paint was scraped off, I carefully cleaned up the siding and rolled up the tarp to dispose in a sealed bag. Then I turned the siding over and gasped at the beautiful old saw marks and wood grain.

Even though the painted side of the siding would not be seen, I still used an encapsulating primer over the paint just in the off chance someone took them down one day.

After the primer dried, I coated the back sides with a clear deck sealer to protect the wood from the elements (even though they had more than weathered 118 years of being exposed to the elements.)

It took me two days to cut and install the siding on the side porch ceiling. It was two of the hottest days in Raleigh. And working overhead was not for the faint of heart.

But, in the end I was thrilled with the porch ceiling.

After the side porch ceiling was complete, I used brown caulk to seal any gaps between the old siding and the large nail holes to prevent bugs from getting through them. After the week of climbing ladders and that little DIY step, my gluteus muscles were incredibly sore. It was time to call my framer and schedule him to come back to build the side porch steps. By now, I was worried one of my subs (or worse yet, an inspector) would trip and fall on the little “step stool”.

The stairs were a huge improvement. I added the risers and painted them to match the trim color.

The stair treads are also Southern Yellow Pine. Be sure to read more about why SYP is the best choice for your exterior projects at Wood It’s Real.

I hope you enjoyed this update from the Saving Etta project. Stay tuned for more updates inside the house!

Disclosure: This post is a sponsored post for Wood It’s Real. It was written as part of their sponsorship of the Saving Etta project. I was not told what to write. All words and opinions are my own. I am very particular about the brands I work with, and only partner with companies that provide quality materials and/or services.