Home Office Archives - Pretty Handy Girl

Learn the simplest and most accurate way to build drawer boxes with this easy tutorial.

Drawer Box Build

Welcome back, this is Kristen from In Her Garage Woodworking here with another build plan for you. When I first began my DIY woodworking journey over 5 years ago I was most intimidated by building drawers. I avoided them because I thought there were too many measurements and too much room for error. But, with a simple plan and a lot of practice, I now make drawers consistently and accurately. These are the exact plans I use to this day to make drawer boxes for all of my commissioned furniture pieces because when you’re able to make something quickly and easily that is solid and looks great, why would you ever change it?

Materials

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

3/4” thick board (or plywood) (purchase the width of your choice at the circumferential measurement of the drawer box needed)
1/4” plywood panel
1 ¼” pocket screws
Titebond 3 wood glue
Drawer slides

Tools

Miter saw or circular saw
Table Saw (or use your circular saw and this jig)
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Instructions:

Your drawer can be any depth you wish, but before building the drawers, rip your 3/4″ material to the drawer height you desire (if you are using plywood or if your 3/4″ material is wider than your finished drawer.

Step #1: Cut drawer box sides

Using your miter or circular saw, cut two identical 3/4” boards to the same length of the drawer slides you’ll be using.

Step #2: Cut drawer box front and back

Cut two pieces of the 3/4 inch material for the front and back of the drawer box. If you’re using ¾” material to build the drawer box then the length of the front and back can be calculated as follows (see equation and picture below):

Width of drawer box – 1½” = width of front and back drawer box boards

Step #3: Add groove for drawer bottom (optional)

Taking all four 3/4″ boards to the table saw cut a groove 1/4” from the bottom of all sides that is 1/4” deep. Run the 3/4 board through one time, then adjust the fence (or your saw) to cut another groove next to the first. (A standard saw blade is 1/8” wide so you will need to make two passes in each board to achieve a 1/4″ groove for the 1/4″ drawer bottom material.

Dry-fit the plywood to check for fit.

Step #4: Create pocket-holes

Using your Kreg jig make 2 pocket-holes at either end of the front and back boards on the opposite side as the plywood bottom groove if you chose to do this step. Be sure to avoid the groove.

Step #5: Assembly

If you DID NOT cut a groove to accept the plywood bottom, then you can assemble the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Then, you will cut your bottom 1/4″ panel to the length and width of the drawer box and simply glue and nail it to the bottom of the drawer box

If you DID create a groove for the bottom panel assemble the front and both sides using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.

Next, cut the ¼” plywood to fit into the bottom of the drawer box groove dry fitting the back panel to check for fit.

Once you have the correct size for the plywood bottom then slide it into the groove and attached the back piece of the drawer box using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws. There is no need to apply glue into the panel groove. The plywood bottom will “float” in place.

No need to worry about filling the pocket-holes because you will be applying a drawer face directly over them.

Be sure to check for square by measuring both diagonals of the drawer box. If one measurement is longer simply squeeze the longer diagonal until both are the same.

Allow drawer box to dry.

That is the basic drawer box build that I use and it is strong and easy to put together. I hope this tutorial gives you the confidence to tackle that project you’ve been putting off. Next, I will teach you my favorite method for installing drawers and how I troubleshoot drawer boxes that just aren’t quite the right fit!

Finishing Tips:

If you are making your drawer boxes out of plywood then check out Brittany’s Edge Banding Tutorial and learn how to cover that unsightly plywood edge.

Wondering how, or if, you should apply a protective finish to the drawer box? If I am working with solid wood for the drawer sides then I will give the material a quick finish sanding and that’s it. But, for plywood, I typically do one of two things, depending upon what I have on hand at that time.

Option 1: Apply 1 or 2 coats of sanding sealer to raise the grain of plywood and sand smooth. Sanding sealer is clear, easy to apply, and dries quickly. If I have the time and patience I may also apply a quick spray of clear, semi-gloss, water-based topcoat to give it a little shine but it isn’t necessary.
Option 2: Apply 2 to 3 coats of spray shellac to seal the plywood. Spray shellac dries quickly and won’t leave any chemical smell behind. But be aware that it will give the plywood a slight amber tone which typically isn’t big deal. Remember to lightly sand between coats.

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box, and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now. And check out the brand new In Her Garage Etsy shop for other plans or to have a furniture item made especially for you!

February 17, 2021/0 Comments/by In Her Garage

bedroom, buffet, Build It, cabinet, circular saw, creating moulding, Decorating, dining room, DIY, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Furniture, hanging shelves, Home Decor, Home Office, inspiration, Uncategorized

How to Make and Use a French Cleat

I am going to teach you how to securely hang heavy objects on the wall with a board and a few screws. Using a French Cleat has been a tried and true method for hanging heavy objects and is used by professional cabinet makers and DIYers alike. It can be incorporated into the item being built or added after the fact.

How to Make a French Cleat

What is a French Cleat? A French Cleat is a board or molding with a 30°-45° bevel cut attached to the wall along with a corresponding beveled board or molding attached to the object to be hung on the wall. That sounds a little confusing but check out the diagram below and it will all make sense. First let’s grab a few supplies.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

1″ x 3″ board or 3/4″ plywood strip (3″ minimum width)
2″ screws

Tools:

Instructions:

Step 1:

Measure the length that you need your French cleat to be. Typically a french cleat is the length of the item to be hung on the wall and spans the length of at least 2 studs in the wall that the item will be secured to.

Step 2:

Adjust your table saw or circular saw to a 30°-45° bevel and rip your board along the center. (For tips on using a table saw safely, read this article.)

Step 3:

Secure the top piece of the cleat to the item to be hung (see diagram shown below). This can be done with pocket-holes, glued under a shelf, or with screws to the back of the item. (You may want to pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting the wood.)

Step 4:

Choose the height at which you want to hang the item on the wall and mark where the bottom cleat will be placed. Mark the studs that the cleat will be screwed into and secure the cleat to the wall using wood screws and a level in the orientation shown above. (Again, you may want to pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting the wood.)

Step 5:

Gently place the object above the wall cleat and lower until the two pieces are securely nested together.

Often times the weight of the object and the angle of the beveled cleat is enough to keep the object securely in place. But, if you’re worried about children lifting the item, you can add a screw through the hanging object into the cleat or a wall stud for peace of mind.

And if you’re excited about using a French Cleat, you might like to make a headboard that is hung on the wall using a French Cleat!

This is a great tip for hanging cabinets on the wall as well. I hope you try your hand at making and using a French Cleat soon. Let me know how it goes!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.
I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, and Youtube to see what I am working on right now.

December 16, 2020/0 Comments/by In Her Garage

Crafts, DIY, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Home Decor, Home Office, kids art, Kids Room, pottery barn inspiration, spray paint, Tutorial, Uncategorized

DIY Kid’s Craft Table

Have the kids taken over your kitchen table or island? Need somewhere to let the kids get creative? Today I am going to show you how to make a simple DIY kid’s craft table (or desk). Let’s get building.

DIY Kid’s Desk and Craft Table

If your children are going to be home this fall for distance learning or you just want a spot they can call their own, then it is time to get a space ready for them!! This DIY Kid’s Craft Table is the perfect size for whatever your child will need and it is small enough to fit in a spare corner in your home. Let’s make it!

I made this particular table for a client and it measures 30”h x 43”w x 23”d but you can modify these measurements to fit your needs. Of course, the quality of lumber you use is your choice but I used clear pine from my local big box store because it paints better than using common pine boards. It may be more expensive but the boards tend to be straighter, it saves time on sanding, and I feel it yields a better-finished product. It doesn’t matter what wood you use as long as you love it.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2- 2 x 2 x 8
2- 1 x 4 x 8
1- 3/4” x 2 x 4
1 roll iron-on edge banding
1/4” thick piece of scrap
Wood glue
1 ¼” pocket-hole screws
Paint or stain
Topcoat

Tools:

Cut list and pocket-hole placement:

4- 2×2 @ 29 ¼”
2- 1×4 @ 38” (3 pocket-holes in each end)
2- 1×4 @ 18” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
1- 1×4 @ 19” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
3/4”x 43”x 23” birch plywood

Step 1: Sand table components

I know it seems odd to start with this step but trust me when I tell you it is much easier to sand these boards before they are in place. Depending on how rough your lumber is, begin using 60-80 grit sandpaper and incrementally work your way up to 220 grit sandpaper. I chose to use clear pine found at my local big box store so I was able to start with 120 grit sandpaper, which cut down my sanding time. This makes the extra money spent, well worth it!

Step 2: Assemble both table sides

Sandwich one 1 x 4 x 18” (apron) board between two 2 x 2 x 29 ¼” (leg) boards. Pocket-holes should be facing up.
To add a little detail, place a ¼” piece of scrap beneath the 1×4 board to inset it slightly. This will create a shallow reveal looks nice and also gives you a little grace because now the three boards don’t have to be flush to the same surface perfectly.
Clamp the legs and apron boards together and join them using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Repeat these steps for the other side of the table.

Step 3: Attach the front and back table aprons

With both side components standing on their sides sandwich a 1 x 4 x 38” (apron) board between them, again placing a ¼” board beneath the apron to inset it slightly.
Align the top of the 1×4 with the top of the side components.
Clamp and attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Carefully flip the piece over and repeat the above steps to attach the second 1 x 4 x 38” apron board.

Step 4: Attach center support

Attach the center support using wood glue and pocket screws between the two 1 x 4 x 38” boards centered in the middle.

Step 5: Clean up

With a putty knife or chisel gently remove any glue squeeze out and sand smooth.

Step 6: Edge banding

Once the plywood top is cut to size you will need to edge band to cover up the unsightly edges. I won’t go over all of the steps here but if you are new to edge banding please check out this tutorial on How to Finish Raw Plywood Edges.

Step 7: Finish

Time to paint or stain and topcoat!! My client wanted this piece painted white, so I chose a premium latex paint and used a water-based topcoat to protect the paint and prevent yellowing of the finish in the future.

Step 8: Attach the top

Place the tabletop on a flat surface (bottom side up) and center the base over the top upside down.
This plan allows for a 1” overhang of the top on all sides of the table base.
Using the pocket-holes that are shown in the diagrams below, attach the top with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

- Note: Normally I would not recommend attaching a tabletop using pocket screws IF that top were made of solid wood because of wood’s tendency to expand and contract. However, this top is made of plywood and the amount of expansion and contraction that will happen over time is negligible and should not affect the structure of the table base. If you are uncomfortable using pocket-holes to attach the top then feel free to attach it in some other way, such as with figure-8 fasteners or Z-clips.

Flip it over and admire your handy work!! Isn’t this DIY Kid’s Craft Table adorable?!

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

If you enjoyed this tutorial and are looking for other cute ideas for kid’s desk or craft table check out these two fun projects. Both of these could be great projects you could do with the kids to keep the fun going.

Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder

Creating a Chalkboard Desktop.

August 19, 2020/2 Comments/by In Her Garage

Build It, desk, Home Decor, Home Office, organizational tips

DIY Ideas for Setting Up A Home Office

Many of you have suddenly found yourselves transitioning to a home office during this period of social distancing and feeling overwhelmed. No matter how much or how little space you have to work with, I’m here to help you create a cheerful and practical work space with these DIY Ideas for Setting Up a Home Office.

DIY Ideas for Setting Up A Home Office

I have been working out of a home office for quite a while now, so I thought I would share some of my most valuable ideas for getting organized to work at home. For inspiration, here are 13 easy, inexpensive, and practical projects to get you started. Who knows, after you get set up, you may not want to return to your corporate office.

The great thing about this Wall-Mounted Desk is it can be small or large and it won’t take up any floor space!

This Folding Laptop Writing Desk is the perfect height, and can fold up and store away when you’re not using it.

Here’s how you can create a simple (and most importantly, inexpensive) Wood Plank Desktop for about $40!

Tired of your boring home office decor? Within minutes you could give a Magazine File Box a Facelift (or a storage box)!
I saved a lot of money reusing the old. Put ‘er there fellow savers!

If you’ve seen these cute Wall Organizers and thought: “I could totally make that,” I’m here to tell you, you can!

Here are 29 hacks to help you get more organized and help you transition to a better organized home office!

This Bookrack Building Project will have you organized and will free up space in no time. The shelves are tapered and have plenty of depth for multiple books, files, or magazines.

Give a boring beige File Cabinet a SUPER cheap and quick makeover using chalk paint! I bet you can score a free file cabinet on your local buy, sell, or trade group. Or look on FreeCycle.org or Craig’s List.

I’m taking advantage of these days at home to do a big “clean out”! You’re sure to find one of these 12 DIY Storage Projects to help you organize your home useful.

This charming Cottage Style Desk and hutch is where I keep our lives organized! It takes up otherwise wasted space in the corner of our kitchen.

If you are accustomed to DIY projects, you probably amassed quite the stockpile of leftover wood. You’ll love this quick, easy, and cheap DIY iPad Holder!

What’s better than getting organized with more storage? How about combining it with additional seating! Check out this easy tutorial for how to build a Rolling Storage Seat.

Although this wall Storage System was built custom for a mudroom, you can easily adapt it for a home office!

I hope you found some of these DIY Ideas for Setting Up a Home Office helpful. Gotta run and get set up for working tomorrow from home. Good luck to all of you, especially if you have family members who like to interrupt your workflow.

April 1, 2020/0 Comments/by Eve Marie

copper, DIY, Do It Yourself, Home Office

DIY Concrete Desk Organizer

Hi! It’s Sheri from Hazel + Gold, and I’m excited to share this DIY Concrete Desk Organizer tutorial with you! This organizer was born from necessity. Do you have a jar or cup-like pen holder? Have you ever knocked it over reaching for a pen or pencil? I did this all the time!

One reason they tip is because they aren’t big enough to hold all my items. The other reason is these containers aren’t weighted enough. I knew there must be a better way and I’ve been itching to use concrete for a project. It dawned on me I should make something out of concrete to store my pens, pencils, and paintbrushes. Fellow pen and utensil tippers, want to learn how to create this awesome DIY concrete desk organizer? Then let’s do it!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Instructions:

Cut scrap wood to create the box mold for the organizer. A rectangle is space saving and easy to create.

Use three pieces at 8 ½” x 4 ½” and two pieces 5″ x 4 ½”.

The longer pieces will make the bottom and sides, while the two smaller pieces create the ends. Spread wood glue along the joints. (Wood glue holds great but allows the box to be easily removed later on.)

Use clamps to assemble and secure the mold while the glue cures.

Let the glue dry for an hour. Then your box mold is ready for casting!

Prepping Mold and Adding Concrete:

To prevent the concrete from adhering to the wood, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the inside of the box mold.

Collect your wine tumblers, concrete mix, water, and stir sticks. (I used large plastic cups to mix the concrete and ended up having to mix three different batches. If you have a larger container you can make one large batch.)

Mix the concrete according to the instructions on the package. You may have to do a bit of math because people typically use larger quantities of concrete and every concrete is different. I mixed it to a milkshake consistency and it came out perfect.

Pour the concrete into the mold, allowing room for the wine glasses.

Set the wine tumblers into the concrete. Make sure they are level, then use masking tape to hold them in place. Pour in more concrete until it reaches the height that you desire. Make sure the widest part of the glasses are submerged in the concrete to hold them securely.

Remove the mold:

Once the concrete cures (mine only took one day) remove the box mold. Use a knife to pry the sections apart at the joints.

They should come apart easily.

The sides may still look dark, but it will lighten up.

Clean up and Paint:

Clean off all the splatter marks from the glasses. Use a retractable knife to lightly scrape the residue off. Follow up with a soft cloth to clean the glasses. They should clean up easily!

Time to make it pretty! Use some masking tape to mask off a line.

Paint the bottom section (or wherever you prefer) with metallic copper paint.

Add a piece of felt to the bottom to prevent your organizer from scratching the surface it sits on.

Your modern DIY Concrete Desk Organizer is finished!

You can use it in your shop, the kitchen, your office, or anywhere you desire!

Wait until you see the huge number of supplies it will hold without tipping over!

What do you think? Would you make one of these DIY Concrete Desk Organizers? Share your thoughts in the comments below and remember to pin this image to Pinterest so no one has to suffer with tipping containers ever again!

Thanks for reading! Come on over to Hazel + Gold and say “Hi!”

Hi, I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs. Here are a few fun stats about me: I ~~like~~ love chocolate and peanut butter (together of course.) If you like stats, I have been crocheting for about 16 years, crafting for 20, and woodworking for about 4 years. I found a passion in making and being creative and began documenting my projects online at Hazel + Gold Designs.

When not working on projects, I enjoy spending time with my husband, four children, perfect dog, and ornery cat. You can find me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.

Read all of Sheri’s tutorials.

~Find more of Sheri’s projects here ~

June 1, 2018/0 Comments/by Sheri