This is the next update in the Millie’s Remodel series. Recently I had to decide whether I needed to replace the HVAC unit for Millie. Although it was an expensive proposition, the decision on brand was an easy one for me.

Millie’s Remodel: HVAC Update + How to Extend the Life of Your HVAC System

Thank you for your patience with the Millie’s Remodel series. Today I have the next update and this one could actually save you money and the dread of replacing your HVAC unit sooner than you want to.

Just so you know, TRANE is a Millie’s Remodel project sponsor. But, if you’ve been around my website for a while, you know I don’t promote just any brands. If I’m going to mention a brand, you can be sure I’d recommend them to my best friend or my own mother. Now that we’re past the legal disclosure stuff, read on to find out why I like TRANE so much and how to extend the life of your HVAC system!

Millie’s Remodel Inspection:

During the home inspection at Millie’s Remodel, the inspector told me the exhaust fan for the gas furnace was no longer functioning in the unit. Given the age of the HVAC, he recommended replacing it instead of fixing it. Plus, the unit was incredibly loud and sounded like a helicopter! I knew it would need to be replaced.

When TRANE contacted me about being a Millie’s Remodel sponsor, I knew it would be the perfect opportunity for me to share how we decided to purchase a TRANE in the past and how long it lasted.

Back in Time:

The year was 2001 and Pretty Handsome Guy and I had just moved to Raleigh. The Dot Com bubble had burst and we were left without full-time jobs. We had just purchased our first house—needless-to-say—money was tight. We were surviving, but money was still not flowing in. Despite our financial situation, we decided to host a party for some of our new friends. Midway through the party, I looked at our friend Jaye, who was 8 months pregnant. Sweat ran off her forehead and I suddenly realized it was a bit hot in the house. I kept turning the thermostat lower, but each time I checked it, the temperature was climbing instead of going down.

After the party, I walked outside and discovered the unit was covered in ice. I knew enough to know that was not a good sign. We called a few HVAC companies and got the news that it was probably best to replace our old HVAC.

Although we were cash-strapped, we knew we didn’t want to make a poor decision on a major system for our home. After a lot of research, we decided to purchase a TRANE unit. Little did I know that this same unit would still be pumping conditioned air almost two decades later. Our rationale for choosing a TRANE was: if we chose less than stellar HVAC equipment we could be looking at replacing it within 10 years. Whereas, if we chose a TRANE, we could expect to have the same unit for 15+ years. It made sense to spend a little more money now, and hopefully, only have to replace the HVAC twice over 30 years versus paying for three systems in the same time frame? Now doesn’t it make sense to spend a little more up front to save you money in the future?

Guess what! Our rationale was correct. In case you weren’t aware, we moved in 2007 to the house across the street from our first home. Over the years we’ve watched three families move into our old house. Recently I was talking to the current owner and I asked her if she still had the TRANE unit we installed. She told me yes, she did, and it’s still working perfectly! Here it is:

Deciding what brand HVAC system to buy for Millie, is obviously an easy decision. After seeing the old TRANE we put in at our old house still pumping heat and cool air after more than 18 years, why would I choose anything else!

How to Select a New HVAC System:

Ask around. Find out from friends, family, or neighbors which system they installed and who installed it. Ask how old their system is and if they’ve had any issues with the equipment. When I mentioned I was having a TRANE installed at Millie’s Remodel I received several messages from my followers who were also happy TRANE owners:


How to Hire an HVAC contractor:

I recommend finding local TRANE contractors in your area by going to the TRANE website. Then look up the recommended contractors on Better Business Bureau and search for Google or Yelp reviews. When you call, ask for references and call the references. (Not sure what to ask? I have a great article on How to Hire Contractors with suggested questions to help you get the most information from references.)

The HVAC Installation:

Once the day arrived to install the new HVAC system at Millie’s Remodel, the contractors removed the old unit. I was not sad to see that eyesore and earsore go! (It was incredibly loud.)

Luckily the ductwork was almost brand new, so we all agreed to keep it so I could save a little money. The contractors did remove the old pad and put down a new one.

Tip: Always make sure your contractor levels the new pad. Non-level pads can put undue stress on your unit. Do not let them throw mulch or leaves (compostable materials) under the pad to level. They need dirt or gravel or other non-composting material. If you have eagle eyes, you may have noticed a piece of lumber leveling the old unit. This is not an acceptable way to level your HVAC pad.

While the guys were installing the new TRANE unit (I chose the TRANE XR14c which is not a top of the line model, but is still energy-efficient and quiet.) I asked the foreman a question after he finished installing the unit. I specifically asked him what he saw in terms of age of units when removing old HVAC equipment specifically TRANE units vs. other brands. Watch the video to hear his unscripted response:

How to Keep Your HVAC System Running Smoothly:

If you only do one thing to prolong the life of your HVAC unit, it would be to change the filters regularly. Whether that means monthly or up to three months will depend on your home’s dust levels (and any pets you have.) Keep an eye on your filters. If they are showing more dust and hair before three months is up, change them more regularly.

Did you know TRANE has filters specifically designed to meet the balance of reducing dust and lint while keeping your HVAC system running longer? Best of all, you can order them from Walmart and receive them the next day!

If your home is going through a renovation, it’s important to change the filters after a lot of debris has been released into the air. The day after my drywall contractors finished sanding, I replaced the filters. And immediately after the floor refinishers sanded the floors, I replaced the filter. When the renovations are complete I’ll replace them again.

Other things you can do to keep your HVAC system running smoothly is to keep vegetation and landscaping at least 18 inches away from the unit. There needs to be proper airflow around the unit for it to work efficiently.

Call for a maintenance tune-up and check on your system in the Spring and Fall. Don’t wait for temperature extremes to find out your system was stressed and you are now without heating or cooling.

For more maintenance tips and ways to keep your system running a lot longer, read these maintenance tips from TRANE.  In the meantime, I’m going to enjoy this nice, quiet, and efficient new HVAC system from TRANE!

Do you have any TRANE stories? Have a system that proves the saying, “It’s hard to stop a Trane.” Please share in the comments!

Have a great holiday, I’ll be back in January with the next Millie’s Remodel update!

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for TRANE. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I am particular about the brands I represent and will always let you know when you are reading a sponsored post.

How to Protect Your House From Termites or Why I’m Canceling My Termite Treatment

You may have seen my update at the Millie’s Remodel and how I found termite damage under the laundry room floor. I was just completing demolition and discovered the two exterior rim joists crumbled in my fingers. I quickly called my framing contractor and begged him to come out as soon as possible to repair the damage. Then I quietly cursed the former owners of the house for not properly knowing how to protect the house from termites.

Unfortunately, work on the house had come to a screeching halt until this fix could be completed. Luckily, my framers came at the end of the week and replaced the destroyed joists and subfloor. But, all this could have been avoided if the owners knew more about termites. So, today I’m here to beg you to educate yourself on termites and the costly damage they can do to your home. Learn how to protect your house from termites! If you live in the United States (with the exception of Alaska), you have termites! All you Northerners, stop shaking your head at me. I know you’ve been told termites aren’t an issue for you. Keep reading and I’ll tell you why you do need to be concerned!

As a general contractor, a real estate investor, and all around handy girl, I’ve seen my fair share of termite damaged homes (including my personal home.) Therefore, when I hear from people that they don’t believe in termite treatments, I give them a dumbfounded look.

Termites can damage your home, causing costly repairs—or worst yet—an unsafe home. Did you know there is a termite species that can cause major structural damage to a house within six months! And these termites (Formosan Termites) love warm and humid environments. If that describes your area, you are playing with fire (or little wood eating insects) if you don’t have a termite prevention plan.

Top Myths Why People Don’t Have a Termite Treatment Plan:

  • Termites Aren’t Common in Our Area
    Currently termites have been reported in all of the United States with the exception of Alaska. Warmer temperatures have created a friendlier atmosphere for termites, even in northern states.
  • My House is Made of Brick
    You may think because your home’s exterior is brick, you aren’t at risk of a termite infestation. But, what’s inside your walls? If your home’s framing (interior walls, floor and ceiling system) have any wood, you are at risk. Not to mention those beautiful wood floors you cherish. The only exception would be if you live in a concrete bunker (or concrete block house) with vinyl or tile floors. And even still, if you have any wood in your house, it can be at risk.
  • I Get an Annual Termite Inspection
    Some people think they can have their home inspected on a regular basis, and if termites are discovered they can treat the infestation. Remember what I said about the aggressive termite colony that can do major structural damage in as little as six months. This is a new strategy I just heard about, but frankly I believe in prevention vs. repairs.
  • I’ve Never Seen Any Termites Near My Home
    Most termites are subterranean, meaning they live underground. It’s not likely you would see them or notice an infestation until your home has sustained major damage. Termite tunnels can be detected inside a crawlspace or on the foundation walls. If your home’s foundation is close to ground level, you may not see anything at all until it’s too late. Also, if you have an enclosed crawlspace or encapsulated crawlspace, you may not see the tunnels behind a vapor barrier.

Types of Termites in the Colony:

  • Termites workers (the ones that do the actual damage) are small white insects approximately 1cm in size. They are actually very fragile and need moisture to live. Therefore they will bring moisture with them, which helps break down the wood fibers faster. The workers feed the colony.
  • Soldiers: Like their name suggests, the termite soldiers have armored heads and powerful jaws eager to defend the colony from enemies such as ants.
  • Swarmers: In the spring and early summer, termites will swarm. This is when they grow wings and mate. Sometimes swarming termites are mistaken for flying ants. Although similar, upon closer inspection termites do not have three distinct body segments that ants have. Termites also have four wings the same shape and size. If you see swarmers (or a collection of wings) anywhere around your home, you should contact a professional pest control company immediately!
  • The Queen: This Mother can reach up to four inches in length and is responsible for increasing her colony size. Her sole purpose is to mate and lay eggs. At a pace of one egg per second, she can lay up to a million eggs in her lifespan. Lest you think the colony is dead when she dies, another queen is merely waiting in the wings (so to speak.)

How Can You Tell if You Have Termites?

  • Swarming termites or termite wings around or inside your home.
  • Cracked, bubbled paint, or pin holes can be a sign of termites trying to get out of the walls to swarm.)
  • Wood that sounds hollow when tapped.
  • Mud tubes or tunnels on your home’s foundation, walls or crawlspace.

Top Ways to Protect Your Home from Termites:

  • Eliminate water from around your home:
    • Fix leaky faucets and pipes, repair or replace defective gutters or downspouts, get rid of standing water, and trim excessive vegetation from around your home.
  • Eliminate food sources for termites on and around your home:
    • Keep firewood, paper, and untreated lumber away from the exterior of your home.
  • Make sure your home’s siding is not touching or below the ground level. Only concrete, cinder block or brick should be in direct contact with the earth.
  • Keep up with all home maintenance and inspections.
  • Siding should be in good condition. Replace rotted siding as soon as possible.
  • Keep mulch and organic bed coverings at least a foot or more away from foundation walls.
  • Inspect your foundation and crawlspace walls for mud tunnels.
  • Have an annual termite inspection and termite contract with a reputable company

What to Do If You Find Termite Damage in Your Home?

Dealing with termite damage can be as easy as adding a sister board to a damaged joist or stud in your crawlspace or attic where the framing members are accessible. Worse damage may require replacing the framing member. Some damage requires removing interior finishes and drywall to replace damaged studs and wall members inside the wall. Severe damage may require a structural engineer consultation to determine how to repair, support, or replace load bearing framing, beams, or girders.

Types of Termite Treatments:

  • Soil-Applied Barrier Treatment – a trench is dug around the home and chemicals containing termiticides are poured into the trench.
  • Bait Stations – Cellulose and insect growth regulator housed in bait stations are installed in the ground around the perimeter of the structure to be protected.


Why I am Canceling My Termite Treatment:

Here’s where I want to let you know this is a sponsored post for Corteva, the manufacturers of Sentricon. I think you know by now that I don’t write sponsored posts unless I thoroughly believe in a product. Yes, I was compensated for my time, but I care more about getting the best information and advice into your hands than I do about collecting money in my account.

Now, let me tell you why I’m canceling my traditional termite treatment plan and how I’ve decided to switch to the Sentricon bait system.

Several months before I found the termite damage at Millie’s Remodel, I renewed our termite contract on our personal residence. The scheduler told me I was due for an inspection and the booster treatment. I knew this meant they had to dig a trench and create a liquid barrier around our home. But, I had no idea how much liquid (aka chemicals) had to be poured in the trench. I was shocked as I watched the technician pour a small river around the entire house. Secretly I thought to myself, “There has to be a better solution.” At the time I wasn’t convinced there was a better termite treatment available. And I certainly wasn’t going to gamble the safety of my house with termites.

A few days later I couldn’t get the images of all those chemicals being poured into the soil out of my head. As an environmentalist, I don’t like using any chemicals around my home, so why would I want massive chemicals dumped into the soil at the base of my house? I ended up doing a lot of research and came across an excellent source of information about termites and EPA approved treatment plans. One of the things I saw on the website furthered my concern about using the traditional soil-applied barrier method to protect our home from termites.

A quote from the EPA website regarding Liquid Soil-Applied Termiticides (aka trench and liquid pour):

If conducted improperly, these treatments can cause contamination of the home and surrounding drinking water wells and will not protect against termites. For that reason, it is important to hire a pest management professional who is licensed and trained to take proper precautions.

I still wasn’t ready to forgo a termite treatment plan. I had seen first hand the damage termites did to our kitchen walls. The problem was our house was not treated before and after a garage addition was built. (Always talk to a termite contractor before building a home or addition. A treatment has to be applied before framing while the crawlspace or slab is open.)

Therefore when Sentricon approached me about their termite system, I was all ears. You should know I was skeptical about bait systems. I mistakenly thought they would attract more termites to a property. After asking a lot of questions, I agreed to try the Sentricon system. But, I talked to several experts at Corteva (the manufacturers of Sentricon), and after thirty minutes of me peppering them with questions, I felt at ease about trusting my investment property with their termite system.

Want to do your own research about the Sentricon System? You’ll want to read more about home treatment on the Sentricon website. Plus, you’ll find the FAQ page extremely helpful for answering a lot of your questions.

How the Sentricon Termite Bait System is Installed:

I scheduled my local Sentricon specialists to first inspect the property to see if it was a good candidate for the system. The tech came out and looked in the crawlspace and around the property. Then he drew a map with a plan for where to install the Sentricon bait stations.

Next we scheduled an installation day. Dave from Arrow Exterminators arrived promptly on install day and was polite enough to answer another list of questions I had. Instead of making you read them, you can watch my video from the Sentricon installation date.

Let me tell you, it was definitely a lot less shocking watching Dave from Arrow Exterminators installing the Sentricon system versus watching chemicals being liberally poured against the foundation.

After numbering the stations, the tech removes the cap on the bait station and scans both the cap…

…and the bait.

The information is stored and makes their job easy when they come back out to check the stations.

Small holes are drilled into the earth around the perimeter of the house.

Then the bait station is inserted into the hole.

The tech may kick dirt over the station to make it invisible to humans! But, it’s not invisible to termites. Although they are blind, they will find it.

When the termite company returns next year to check on the stations, they can use a special wand detector (like a metal detector) to locate the bait stations (after checking the map saved in the file.)

Want to learn more about termites? The Sentricon blog is full of amazing facts and good information about termites and treatment plans. If you want to find out more about the Sentricon system, you’ll find their FAQ page helpful!

Hopefully I’ve helped educate you on termite treatments. I leave you with these questions: How confident are you with your termite treatment plan? Is it worth risking your home’s health? From past experience I can tell you I’d rather have a prevention plan than a wait and see plan. How about you?

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for Corteva, the makers of Sentricon. I was provided complimentary termite protection for a year and was compensated for my time and efforts to promote Sentricon. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I am particular about the brands I represent and will always let you know when you are reading a sponsored post.

9 ways to make your home warmer social media

9 ways to make your home warmer pinterest image9 Ways to Make Your Home Feel Warmer this Winter

Winter brings snow days and memories of snuggling up under the blankets with hot cocoa, but one thing that isn’t fun about winter are the cool drafts, cold floors, and wasted energy trying to heat your home. Today I have 9 ways to make your home feel warmer without turning up the thermostat! Implementing some or all of these tips will be sure to make your home more energy efficient this winter. I hope you find these tips as helpful as I have!

Insulate Garage Door:

Are there gaps on the sides of your garage door? Do you see light coming through? If so, you need to add some foam rubber weatherstripping to your garage to keep it warmer in the winter. Foam rubber weatherstripping prevents drafts from entering your garage. Use it to block gaps between doors and the door frames. In about an hour you can seal the gaps around your garage door. This could make a big difference in the temperature of your garage year-round. It can also improve the temperature in adjacent rooms. After installing the weather stripping we noticed a huge difference in the temperature of our bonus room that sits on top of the garage. Read my full tutorial on Installing Weatherstripping to the Garage Door.

Seal Doors and Windows:

Do you feel a draft by your window when the wind kicks up outside? Can you see daylight seeping through your door? If you answered yes to either of those questions, you are throwing away money on heating and cooling your home. The solution is as simple as buying a roll of foam weatherstripping. To check for drafts, wet your hand and run it around the window edges to see if you feel any cold air. Peel off a section of weatherstripping. Press it onto the door jamb. Peel off the protective paper. Test your door by closing it and look again for light.

You can also use the same weatherstripping on the bottom of your old windows. Most windows and doors should have it, but old houses may not. Seal the gaps in your windows and doors. Some homes have metal weatherstripping which isn’t the best because they bend and conduct cold through them, but it can still work in some places. For gaps underneath doors you can add the strip that screws onto inside of door and when closed it presses up against the threshold. There are a few options here, but the real priority is to just get it done and start saving on cooling and heating your home.

Engage Deadbolts: How to Replace Door Knobs | Pretty Handy Girl

When you are out of the house, or when everyone is home (and no one will get locked out) engage the deadbolts to stop drafts on your front door. It will tighten the door up against the weatherstripping. Check your weatherstripping to make sure it’s in good shape. If your door doesn’t close tightly, it may be a simple fix. Try to move your strike plate to get a tighter seal. You might have to chisel a little more into the door frame to completely engage the deadbolt.

Single pane windows:

Newer windows are typically double-pane which allow them to have a layer of gas between the two pane of glass. This helps insulate the house. If you have single pane windows, don’t immediately jump to replace them. One option aside from buying new windows is to add a storm window to keep the warmth in. The second window imitates the double layer of the double-pane but costs a lot less! Just be sure to close your storm windows in the winter. In the summer you’ll want to add a screen so you can open up the window and let the warm air out, or use a fan to blow the air out.

Add Curtains:

Add lined curtains to your windows. Get solid curtains with a liner and keep them closed at night in the winter. During the day, open the curtains when the sun starts to come in. You’ll be amazed at how much it impacts the room and limits the drafts that are trying to sneak in. Your room will be much warmer and you didn’t have to spend a fortune. Need to learn how to hang curtains? Read my tutorial on Hanging Curtains (and a no-iron solution!).

Block a Drafty Fireplace:

Create an insert for your fireplace by buying some rigid foam, wrapping it with batting, and gluing it to masonite. This will make a nice front cover that keeps the drafts from seeping into your home. Find a full tutorial here on how I built a beautiful draft stopper for my fireplace.

Seal Pipes and Vents:

Seal the space around your pipes and vents with Great Stuff. This will keep the drafts from coming through but also unwanted critters. The holes around plumbing are common places for bugs and critters to enter homes, but it is a quick and easy project to seal them up and prevent entry!  Great Stuff is easy to use, simply shake the can for 30 seconds, add the spray nozzle and fill your gap about half way. It expands as it cures so be sure not to overfill. It is helpful to have paper towels to wipe off drips and a serrated knife to cut off any unwanted parts after it is cured. You can read my article: using GREAT STUFF to seal gaps around pipes.

Insulate Attic doors:Attic Insulating Pull Down Cover

There are a few options for insulating between your attic to prevent drafts. You can add weatherstripping around the door or you can add rigid foam insulation glued to the attic side of the access door. This works for both walk-in attics and pull-down doors. Another fancy option is an Attic Stairway Cover, which can be found here (affiliate link.)  Any of these options can help you save on your energy costs!

Warm Up Floors: 

The final tip I have is to use rugs on tile or wood floors to keep your feet warmer. Rugs will also keep your room warmer and make a big difference on the comfort level in your home. It’s such a simple tip, but really can make a big difference.

I hope these tips help make your home warmer this winter and for many winters to come. And I’d love to hear if you have any tips for making your home warm during the cold winter days!

Window Cleaning Solution - Water and Dish Soap

How to Clean your Windows Like a Pro

How to Clean Your Windows like a Pro

Hi, Pretty Handy Girl Readers!!  What’s one way to improve both the interior look and exterior curb appeal of your home? Clean your windows! Not only do sparkling clean windows look amazing from the outside, but they also let more light in and create a brighter home on the inside.  This post will teach you how to clean your windows like a pro.

Unfortunately, cleaning your windows is not a fun task. While you can always shell out hundreds of dollars for a professional window cleaning, this one simple and cheap tool will get the job done as good as the pros and leave that money in your pocket.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

When to Clean Windows:

Spring Cleaning is the perfect time to get this done. Although, if you have a lot of pollen you may want to wait for pollen season to end, then clean the pollen and debris off them.

Cleaning Tools for your Windows

The only tools you need is this Ettore 65000 Professional Window Cleaning Kit for less than $20. The kit comes with a handy squeegee and a microfiber mop head. (Bonus: the microfiber mop head is washable too!)

How to Clean your Windows:

Follow these steps for sparkling clean windows that your neighbors will envy! 🙂

Step 1 – Prepare your Cleaning Solution

Window Cleaning Solution - Water and Dish Soap

First, fill a bucket with water and add a few squirts of dish soap.

Step 2 – Wet your Mop Head

Dip your mophead in the cleaning solution

Take your microfiber mop head and dip it in your soapy bucket a few times. Wring it out a bit with your hand. You don’t need it to be dripping wet.

Step 3 – Scrub your Windows

Scrub your Windows Clean

Run the wet microfiber mop head over your dirty windows a few times to clean them. Some spots may take a bit of elbow grease.

Step 4 – Squeegee!

Squeegee water and soap from your windows

Starting from the top middle of the window, take your squeegee and run it over the window in a fluid, top to bottom motion. Continue all the way to the bottom of the window. By using your squeegee in this pattern, you avoid leaving streaks from where you stopped and started. Don’t worry – you can always start over again if you find you left too many streaks.

Step 5 – Wipe up Excess Water

Wipe off excess water from your window sill

Finally, use a clean, microfiber cloth or paper towel to wipe up the excess water from the squeegee at the base of the window frame.

You can clean your windows both inside and outside using this same method. This tool gives you such clean windows – you will never go back to your old method of cleaning windows again. I dare say you may even find window cleaning is somewhat enjoyable. Put on your headphones and your favorite tunes and get lost in the zen of cleaning windows!

Trust me, it’s an oddly addicting activity.

Sparkling Clean Windows - Clean Windows Like a Pro

Windows Too High?

What if you have a window that’s really high and hard to reach? Fortunately,  this upgraded tool has an extension pole that easily snaps on both the squeegee and microfiber mop head. It takes a bit more finesse to use this with the extension pole attached, but after a few times you will get the hang of it.

When you are finished cleaning, the extension pole collapses for easy storage. I keep the squeegee and microfiber mop head conveniently stored under my sink and pull it out whenever I see dirty windows and kids fingerprints.

It’s amazing what clean windows will do for your home! (PS: This tool works for your glass shower doors as well! Give it a try.)  If you want more cleaning tips – check out how to clean your oven racks on Decor Hint.  And find out why you should never throw away your old toothbrushes (hint: it’s not for your teeth!)

I hope this helps you on your way to cleaner windows! I’ll be back here next month with another tutorial for you!

karen signature

~ See More of Karen’s Tutorials ~

karen from decor hintHello!  I’m Karen, the creator of the Home Decor and DIY Blog: Decor Hint. I’m a Native of the East Coast, but I currently live in beautiful Seattle with my hubby, our two wonderful children, and our spunky wheaten terrier.

You can usually find me with some sort of craft in one hand and a coffee in the other. And I’m always rearranging furniture or moving lamps from room to room. I have a passion (read: obsession) for decorating, DIY, and gardening. In short, I love making my house into a home.

Like many, I’m inspired by what I see in home decor magazines, but I’m not so inspired by the price tags.  Consequently, I love finding and creating beautiful budget-friendly home decor items. In a head to head competition, I bet you’d never know the difference between the designer items and my DIY creations!  Many of my DIY projects focus on sewing, crafting, upcycling and organizing. Some of my favorite projects have been making pretty wreaths, sewing my own tassel hand towels, and crafting these trendy wood bead garlands. I can’t wait to inspire you and spark your creativity through my DIY projects.

You can always connect with me on Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

A few years ago I gave my stepmom’s screen porch a much needed makeover. At the time we noticed the seat cushions were starting to sag, but decided they still functioned. This year, my stepmom told me they had to be fixed. Boy was she right! Today I’m going to show you the easiest (and most permanent) way to fix sagging furniture seat cushions for good!

If you’ve ever dealt with sagging porch furniture I have a simple solution for you! Let’s get fixing!


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Track Saw
Tape Measure
Chalk Line
Centipede Portable Work Stand
Palm Sander

Fix Sagging Furniture Seat Cushions Instructions:

Feel free to watch the video or read the full tutorial below. It’s your choice.

If your furniture has removable seat frames, take them off the seats. Measure the seat frames and figure out how much plywood you’ll need to cover the seat frames.

Lay the seat frames onto the sheet and mark around the seats. (Alternatively, you can make a paper template of your seats and transfer them to the plywood.)

Cut the plywood to the size of your seats using a circular saw (or my preferred tool: the track saw.)

Here’s a tip for cutting sheet lumber:

Put a piece of rigid foam insulation under your plywood sheet. Set the depth of your blade just slightly deeper than your lumber. Cut the plywood on top of the insulation. The insulation supports the plywood while the saw blade cuts into the insulation and not your work surface.

If your seat frame has webbing, go ahead and cut it off the frame. Throw away the webbing.

Trace around any corners or specific shapes of your seat frame.

Use a jigsaw to cut off these shapes.

Sand all rough edges and give the entire plywood seat a good sanding to remove splinters.

If your plywood seat will be exposed to the elements, it’s a good idea to seal it with primer and/or paint.

To secure the plywood to the seat frame, drive a screw through the plywood at each corner of the frame. Stop when the screw head is resting on top of the frame. Add more screws at any cross supports. The screws are mainly to keep the plywood centered on the frame, so they don’t have to be super strong structurally.

Set your plywood seat frame back into the furniture. We chose to have the old frame on top otherwise you would see the edge of the plywood.

Fix for sagging cushion. Plywood under cushions

If your furniture didn’t have a removable frame, you can put the plywood directly onto the seat (under your cushions.)

“Ahhh, much better. ” 

I hope this tutorial helped you fix your sagging furniture cushions! Let me know if you tried this fix and how it worked for you.

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*Many have asked me about the photography and video equipment I use. I finally put together a list of the equipment I used here.