Today we’re prepping to tile in the kitchen and bathrooms. Having seen firsthand how much damage water can cause to a home, I want to show you this tutorial for How to Waterproof Floors!

Waterproofing Floors in Any Room

Renovations are finally moving forward at Millie’s Remodel. This is the point where I feel like we already hit rock bottom and now we’re finally on the rebound. You might remember we used a self-leveling concrete in the kitchen last week. Now it’s time to waterproof the floors to prevent damage from ever happening again!

Last year I took two Schluter classes and learned about waterproofing, uncoupling membranes, and tips and tricks to keep your tile job looking flawless for a lifetime. What I learned over the four days blew my mind. I learned why and how shower systems fail. But, most importantly, I learned how to properly prepare surfaces for tile using waterproofing membranes. Today we’ll just be talking about waterproofing a floor, but I’ll have another tutorial for you soon so you can learn how to waterproof walls too.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Why should you waterproof a floor?

Before we get started, I want you to fully understand how waterproofing a room can actually save you money and save you from the headache of having a leak in your home.

If you have a kitchen or a bathroom, chances are you’re going to have a leak in your lifetime (or your home’s lifetime) if it hasn’t already happened. One of the best things you can do is to install waterproofing materials so water can never damage your floors or floor framing again. I believe so strongly in the Schluter products, that all the properties I’m working on (including my own) will have Ditra installed on the floor before tiling.

By using the Schluter Ditra uncoupling and waterproof membrane in conjunction with Kerdi band around the perimeter of the room, I can waterproof the entire floor. Which means I don’t have to worry about rot or mold happening. Any little leaks will sit on top of this membrane until I see it because the water will rise instead of seeping into your floor or walls.

Ready to get started? Let me show you how to waterproof any room in your house!

For your convenience, I made a video to help show how to install Schluter waterproofing products and how to fully waterproof a room!


  1. Cut open your roll of Ditra and roll it out onto a scrap piece of wood or something you can cut on.
  2. Measure the room you want to waterproof and transfer the dimensions onto your Ditra membrane. Use a straight edge and a sharp utility knife to cut the Ditra. You might need to make a few passes with the knife to cut completely through the Ditra membrane.
  3. Test fit the Ditra in your room. Cut out a hole for your floor vents by pressing your knife through the membrane where the vent is and remove the material up to the edges of the duct. Cut the rest of the pieces to fill the room. Do not overlap the Ditra material.
  4. Now it’s time to mix the thinset. When using Schluter Ditra it’s highly recommended to use the Schluter All Set. This mortar is specifically manufactured to cure against the waterproof membrane. Read the instructions on the packaging and mix your thinset as directed.
  5. Use a wet sponge and clean water to clean and wet the subfloor. Spread the thinset onto the floor using the Schluter Ditra trowel. Make sure you have good coverage on the floor.
    Then use the notched trowel to comb through the thinset at a 45° angle.
  6. Lay the Ditra membrane on top of the thinset and use a smooth float to press the membrane into the thinset. In the beginning, you should roll back a corner of the Ditra to make sure you have full coverage onto the backing of the membrane. Place the Ditra back down and use the float again to make sure the membrane is pressed into the thinset.
  7. Use a wet sponge to clean out any mortar that has squeezed out the seams or edges.
  8. Once all the Ditra has been installed into the subfloor, you’re ready to seal the perimeter and seams. Grab a Kerdi corner piece for each corner of the room. Using the Kerdi trowel, apply thinset mortar to the inside corner of the room. Use the notched side to comb through the thinset. Place the Kerdi corner into the thinset and use the flat side of the trowel to embed and scrape along the Kerdi.
  9. Now you’re ready to install the Kerdi Band on the straight sections of wall. Be sure to cut your Kerdi band so it overlaps the corner pieces by at least 2 inches. I like to pre-fold my Kerdi Band by creasing it in the middle so it’s easier to install in the corners. Apply the Kerdi Band to the wall and floor using the same technique as the corner.
  10. Clean up any excess mortar leaving a smooth surface for tile installation.
  11. Now it’s time to complete the waterproofing of the room by sealing the seams between the Ditra sheets. Cut your Kerdi Band so it overlaps any perimeter band by at least two inches. Apply the thinset over the seam, use the notched trowel to create ridges in the thinset.
    Then embed the Kerdi band into the mortar and run the flat side of the trowel over the band to smooth the thinset and embed the band.
  12. Clean up any excess and allow the thinset to cure before tiling.

Once the thinset has cured you can tile your room and rest easy knowing this room is waterproofed and there’s no way the subfloor will rot from a sneaky little leak. Or a big leak if you have kids that like to splash out of the bathtub. I know this risk all too well from my own boys.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and you’ll consider using Schluter waterproofing materials before you renovate your next “water” room.

Disclosure: I was provided with some Schluter materials for this project. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I am particular about the brands I represent and will always let you know when you are reading a post with complementary products or a sponsored post.

After demolition, I realized several water leaks left some low spots in the kitchen floor at Millie’s Remodel.  Today I’m going show you how to use self-leveler to fix a sagging floor.  I’ll also show you a few tools you’ll find helpful when pouring self leveler.

Tips & Tricks to Self-Level a Floor at Millie’s Remodel

Can I level with you? LOL. Seriously, when I bought the Millie’s remodel house I knew there were some plumbing leaks. But, I had no idea how much damage the water had done to the floor in the kitchen. I discovered a pretty decent hump in the middle of the room with low spots on either side. To combat the hump my assistant, Stephanie, and I secured cedar shakes to the floor in one of the low spots. Then we laid 1/2″ OSB plywood on top. This helped a little bit with the bow, but we still had some issues.

One corner of the room was 3/4 of an inch lower than the other corner. Plus you could still detect the hump. I decided the best way to deal with the dips, hump, and creating a flat surface to tile onto was to pour a self-leveling concrete in the kitchen.

Prepping the Room for Self-Leveling Concrete Pour

Before pouring self-leveler, you should understand the properties of this mix. When you first mix the product, it’s very liquid and will flow to the lowest spot in your floor. It’s important to seal any cracks or gaps in the floor or your mix will seep through the cracks. You also need to cover any vents or you’ll watch all the mix pour into your ducts (no bueno!)

I like to use rigid foam insulation to prep the perimeter of the room. This creates a form and keeps the liquid from flowing outside the room. I use a sharp utility knife to cut strips from a big 4×8 sheet of rigid foam insulation. I found it easiest to use my trim nailer to nail the pieces to the perimeter of the room. Then I sealed the joint where the insulation and subfloor meet with a line of caulk. If you’ve never mastered spreading caulk quickly and cleanly, you’ll want to see my tutorial for using a caulk gun.

Now that the prep work is done, you’ll need to gather a few tools for this project.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

materials for self-leveling concrete project


Optional: Work boots you can clean off easily

Priming the Floor:

Self-Leveling floor primer

Before pouring the self-leveling concrete, read the directions on the bag. Most leveling mixes specify you apply one coat of primer to a clean floor and let it dry before pouring the self leveler.

Tips for Spreading Self-Leveler:

Watch this video to see how we quickly and efficiently spread the self-leveling concrete mix:

Can you believe how helpful a simple garden rake is for spreading self-leveler? Me either!

After pouring your self-leveler, use a long level to check to see if you need to pour in more areas. Finally, use the concrete float to smooth and feather the edges of the self-leveling material into the floor.

Stay off your concrete pour until it has hardened. Make sure you clean any self-leveler off your tools, boots, or areas you don’t want it to harden onto.

After the self-leveling concrete has hardened, you are ready to tile or install your flooring!

I hope you found this tutorial helpful! Are you subscribed to my YouTube channel? If not, you’re missing out.

P.s. You might also find this tutorial helpful if you have a concrete floor that is damaged or chipping. Follow this tutorial for patching a damaged concrete floor.


A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

millies remodel sponsors logos

Have you ever wanted to maximize the space in one of your drawers? Do you have a drawer that acts like a black hole? Learn how to build a DIY Drawer in a Drawer and watch your organizational dreams come true.

DIY Drawer in a Drawer

Hi! This is Kristen from In Her Garage, and I’m here with a tutorial just for you. We all love organization, but in almost every room of the house we have a drawer that houses those tiny little necessities. And inevitably they end up scattered and lost within the drawer depths. Today I’ll teach you how to build a DIY drawer in a drawer to keep those little things easily at hand while still allowing use of the drawer beneath. You could just build a small separate top drawer, which would be fine if that is the outward aesthetic you want, but if you desire your uniform size drawer front, then this is a perfect solution. And, great news…this can also work as a modification to an existing drawer.

There are similar drawers available online but chances are they won’t fit the size drawer you’re building or already have. Not to mention the cost! Why not just do it yourself?!

I have built this drawer several times and each time I made it for a coffee bar/beverage center I was building. This drawer makes the perfect K-cup organization drawer. My clients had complained, “I’m sick of these K-cups laying all over the drawer!” or “I do not like the look of the K-cups on the tabletop. It looks like clutter!” I was thrilled to be able to help with this issue by building a DIY drawer within a drawer. Once you know how to make this insert drawer, you can use it to hold more little things such as:

  • Office, craft room, kid’s craft room- holding paper clips, push tacks, post-its, those sticky page marker tab things, pens/pencils, markers, scissors, legal pads
  • Bathroom- makeup, hair ties, bobby pins, Qtips, all the little creams, first aid supplies
  • Junk drawer!!- batteries, keys, phone chargers, pens/pencils, tape, rubber bands

I’m sure the list could go on but let’s get down to it and start making this drawer happen!

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)



Please read through the instructions first to gain a basic understanding of what you will be building.


Figure out the size of your drawer you want to build. Then select a height for the inner drawer based on what will be stored in it.

  • If you plan to use it as a K-cup organization drawer allow at least 2” inches in height. (Standard K-cup dimensions are 1 ¾” tall x 2″ top diameter and 1 ¼” bottom diameter.)

Next, you will need to figure out the dimensions of the inner drawer.  Follow the instructions for the drawer slides you chose for the base drawer for sizing. (My slides dictated 1/2″ for each.) The front and sides of the base drawer should be cut to the same height BUT the back of the drawer should be shorter to allow the inner drawer to roll away. See the photos below.

The equation to figure out the back of the base drawer: 

The inner height of the base drawer  – (the height of the inner drawer + 1/2”) = Back of the base drawer

Using the example as shown above:

4” inner base drawer height – (2 ” inner drawer + 1/2”) = 1.5” back of the base drawer

If you are modifying an existing drawer, cut the back panel to this same height using a jigsaw.

Feeling good about that? Great!

Building Your Inner Drawer:

Now it’s time to assemble the inner drawer components. (Double-check your measurements below):

  • Height- you’ve already chosen this dimension
  • The width will be 1 inch narrower than the inner width of the base drawer to allow room for the drawer slides
  • The length will be slightly longer than the length of the drawer slide so the drawer meets the back of the base drawer.

Assemble the inner drawer using wood glue and brad nails.

Installing the Drawer Slides for the Inner Drawer:

You can watch this video and then read the directions, which should help clarify installing the drawer slides.

Set out the base drawer components you pre-cut.

Note: Installing the drawer slide is the opposite of what you would normally think. You always pull a drawer open toward you but this drawer will operate by being pushed away from you to reveal the base drawer beneath it. Meaning the front of the inner drawer slide is now the back. You’ll see what I mean in a minute.

First, take the two sides from the base drawer and mark the front and top of both sides. Now, using your combination square, mark the height of the inner drawer on the sides of the base drawer measuring from the top down. Add about a 1/8” to let the drawer sit slightly lower than the top of the base drawer.

Now figure out where the “front” (actually the back) of the inner drawer slide will be attached.  (Allow 1/8” from the front of the base drawer.) Remember to take into account whether or not the base drawer front attaches inside the sides (as shown in the picture below) or in front of the sides.  If the front does attach between the sides, be sure to allow for the thickness of the drawer front when attaching the slides to the sides.

Mark a pencil line where you will be attaching the drawer slides. Attach the inner drawer slides to the inside sides of the base drawer. Lining up the “front” and bottom of the slides with the two lines you’ve drawn.

Attach the other piece of the drawer slide to the inner drawer bottom (double-check you are lining the back of the slide up to the “front” of the drawer. Normally you would align the front of the drawer slide to the front of the drawer but what was the front of the drawer is now considered the back.)

Now that the drawer slides are installed, Assemble the base drawer (pretend there are drawer slides in the photo below.)

Finishing Your Drawers with Edge Banding:

For a finished look, cover the exposed edges of the plywood with edge banding. I prefer iron-on edge banding because it is easy, inexpensive, and finishes nicely. Brittany has a great tutorial for how to finish plywood edges which includes iron-on edge banding, click here to check it out.

Nesting the Inner Drawer:

Slide the inner drawer into place inside the base drawer. Now you are ready to set your base drawer back into the cabinet it goes in.  That’s it. Good work!

Optional last step: you can add little felt pads to the front and back of the inner drawer. This will make closing the drawer whisper quiet.  Most people will pull the inner drawer closed before closing the base drawer after use but it isn’t necessary if there is a back to the entire cabinet piece. The inner drawer will simply hit the back of the cabinet and be pushed back into place when closing the base drawer so having little felt pads on the back of the drawer will make this quieter and having pads on the front of the drawer will help with this too.


Good luck keeping all the little things organized and I hope this DIY drawer in a drawer will come in handy for any room in your home! Happy Building!

Find more projects and inspiration In Her Garage and follow my DIY journey on Instagram and Facebook.

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.
I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on PinterestInstagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.



Merry and bright finished side

Pinterest Collage image reversible sign

DIY Reversible Wooden Sign on a Pedestal Base

This is an easy project to create for any season! Make your very own Fall/Christmas reversible wooden sign on a pedestal base with this easy tutorial. The top is made with a scrap 2×4, while the pedestal base is assembled from a few pieces of craft wood. Can it get any more simple? There’s no need for a stencil or Cricut to make your sign! Instead use this simple method to transfer the design from paper to wood.

Finished Merry and Bright side on reversible wooden sign


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)


1. Sand the wood

Using the palm sander, start with 100 grit sand paper and sand all sides of the freshly cut 2×4 board. Make sure to smooth out any imperfections as much as possible. Continue sanding with 150 grit and 220 grit consecutively to get a smooth finish. If needed, use the 220 grit sand paper on the wooden candlesticks and circle base. You might find it easier to sand these items by hand.

2. Paint the wooden pieces

Give each piece two coats of white chalky paint. Chalky paint is great for going over bare wood because there is no priming involved and it dries very quickly.

Painted wood pieces

Once both coats of paint have dried completely, sand each piece of wood again with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out any brush lines.

3. Glue the pedestal together

Use a small amount of wood glue to assemble the pedestal base of the sign:

  • Glue both candlesticks together first
  • Glue candlesticks to the beveled edge circle
  • Use a clamp to keep everything together while the glue dries and sets.

Pedestal Base assembly

4. Dry brush to add an aged look

Using a chip brush or a wax brush to dry brush each piece of wood using the gray or brown chalk paint.

Tips for Dry Brushing: Lightly dip the very end of the chip brush into paint. Wipe off the majority of the paint and then lightly brush onto the wood surface. There is no exact science to this method which means there is no wrong way to do it. Just make sure you have wiped off most of the paint before applying.

Dry Brush after

5. Add the Fall and Christmas designs

To add the designs to each side of the reversible pedestal sign, use the same method as these His and Hers Towel Hooks. You could make a stencil with a Cricut or Silhouette Machine, but if you don’t have one of those, this font transfer method is very easy to do!

Print each design out onto paper to the size of the 2×4 sign. If using the designs provided above, they are already sized correctly.

Design prep

Place a sheet of graphite paper on top of the 2×4, and the design on top of that. Use a pencil to lightly trace over the design, but be careful not to press in too hard.

Design prep

Once you’ve traced over the whole design, pull the paper away and you’ll be left with an outline of the design.

How to transfer fonts

Simply fill in the design using your acrylic paint marker. Repeat the steps above for the other side to make it reversible!

6. Glue the sign to the pedestal

The last step is to secure the 2×4 sign to the pedestal base. Use wood glue and a clamp to secure the base to the sign like in step 3. Let it dry and cure completely before moving.

Finished pedestal Base

Pretty easy right? Now you can create your own for every season or occasion!

Finished Merry and Bright side on reversible wooden sign

Merry and bright side on reversible wooden sign up close

Another fun way to use this reversible wooden pedestal sign is to have the front side display “be our guest” and the other side with the WiFi access information. It doesn’t just have to be for the holidays!

What will you put on your reversible wooden pedestal sign?

Finished Sweater Weather side on reversible wooden sign

I’m Amanda, and I am the creator and voice behind the food and DIY blog, Domestically Creative. What started as a place to share updates with friends and family after we moved from Illinois to Tennessee and then to Texas, turned into a passion for finding creative and frugal ways to feed us and decorate our homes.

I have always had the “make it myself” attitude and I’m not afraid to bust out the power tools or get creative when it comes to decorating our home on a budget. You can usually find me scouring the local thrift stores, garage sales and estate sales looking for my next makeover (like this litter box cabinet), or dreaming up ways to make our new house feel more like home. My most recent project was giving my home office a much needed facelift. Some of the plans included creating a fun inspirational accent wall and adding pegboard to store my craft hoards.

I currently call Missouri home, where I live with my husband, dog, and 2 cats in a pretty dull, late 90’s split level. My husband and I both love to travel the U.S and recently purchased a small travel trailer to tag along in our journeys. In our free time together we can usually be found working together on a home project, exploring a new place, or just lounging with our pup, Delilah.

I’d love for you to connect with me on social media via Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Twitter!

See all of Amanda’s tutorials HERE.

How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents

When I purchased the Saving Etta house (a Triple-A construction house built in 1900), I fell in love with the decorative gable attic vent shape at first sight. The little diamonds decorating each gable had my heart skipping a beat, even if she really needed a full gut job and renovation. When we stripped off the old faded aluminum siding and started to assess the condition of the gable vents, it became clear they were in really rough shape. And these cute custom shaped decorative gable attic vents weren’t available anywhere. Of course, you know that won’t stop me from getting what I want, so I taught myself How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents.

1900 triple A frame house

If you are a professional gable attic vent builder, this may not be the way you build gable vents, but I had to figure it out by myself because I couldn’t find any tutorials for building custom shape gable attic louver vents.

Decorative Gable Attic Vents Inspiration

Before we get to the tutorial on how to build custom shaped attic vents, I want to show you some other decorative gable vents to give you some inspiration. It seems I’m drawn to decorative gable attic vents, because I have several photos from my travels of old houses with cute custom shaped gable vents. Take a look at these beauties!

This attic vent doesn’t have louvers, but has a decorative cut out instead. I’m not sure it provides much ventilation, but the vent sure is cute to look at.

Triple A Construction House from pre-1900. Alamance Village, NC

I saved the best for last. Feast your eyes on this beautiful early 1900 quatrefoil louvered vent. This was a Sears & Roebuck house that was unfortunately torn down a few years ago to make way for apartment buildings. Don’t get me started on all the history being torn down around Raleigh, NC. At least I have a photo to remind me of the beautiful architectural features.

Still want more custom shaped gable vent ideas? You can see more Decorative Attic Gable Vents in my Pinterest Board.

Now it’s time to learn How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents!  So, let’s get crackin’.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)




If you have to make multiple gable louvered vents, you may want to start by making a template of your shape. And, you’ll want to measure the rough opening for your gable vent if you are trying to install into existing attic framing.

1. Build a rectangular box using the 1×4’s. Prime the frame (if wood) before installing the louvers.

2. Run the 1×6 lumber through the table saw to cut a 45 degree angle onto one side. (Cut the first louver to test the fit inside the rectangular frame.) Make sure the louver fits and does not protrude past the front or back of the frame. You may need to rip more off your 1×6 material to make the louvers fit inside the 1×4 frame.

3. Cut and set a second louver into the bottom of the gable vent frame.

Measure the space between the top and bottom louver and divide the distance into equal spaces for your middle louvers.

Mark the location for each louver onto the gable vent frame.  This will give you the number of remaining louvers to cut. (For reference, my louvers are approximately three inches apart.)

4. Tack the top louver in place using trim nails (2 ½”, 16 gauge nails.)

5. Use the speed square to hold the second louver in place. Line the louver up with your pre-marked spots. Secure the second louver in place with three nails on each side.

Continue attaching the louvers into the gable vent frame.

When all the louvers have been installed, it should look similar to the photo below.

6. Caulk all the joints on the louvers and the frame. Let the caulk cure. Prime and paint the gable attic vent (especially while you have access to the back).

7. Flip the gable vent frame over and cut a piece of wire mesh hard cloth to fit onto the back of the vent frame.

Secure the mesh with heavy duty staples.

Now your gable attic vents are ready for their decorative shape!

8. You can use any shape you like as long as it fits over the rectangular attic vent. The shape is simply created by attaching a frame to the front of the gable attic vent. I chose the diamond shape since the original house had diamonds. Using the original house vents as my template, I cut Miratec trim into the same diamond shape.

Connect the frame using wood glue and nails. Then secure the decorative frame shape to the gable vent with trim nails.

Installing Gable Attic Vents:

Secure the gable vent inside the house framing using trim nails or screws. The shape frame will sit on top of the house sheathing. Be sure to install house wrap or flashing behind the shape frame, but not over the vent.

A drip cap is installed on top of the shape frame to prevent water from seeping inside. Then the siding is installed.


Finally the painters should caulk around all the seams where the gable attic vent meets the siding.

Saving Etta: 1900 Home Saved from Demolition and restored into a beautiful Triple A construction modern farmhouse. With Flat Sawn Ballusters on porch

Not bad considering the original gable vents were 118 years old! I consider it a win being able to keep the original architectural feature and hopefully allow it to last another 100 years or more.

Did I mention I had to build five decorative diamond gable attic vents? The house had three gables on the front original section of the house…

saving etta front view seeded and straw

…and two on the addition side of the house.

two story side of house backyard transformed

Coming up, I’ll show you how I built the custom diamond shaped window to match the gable vents!

Let me know if you found this tutorial helpful in the comments. It only takes you a minute, but your comment helps keep me motivated.

I hope you are enjoying these tutorials from the Saving Etta house. If you are just visiting this website, you might want to read the entire Saving Etta series! It was a monumental undertaking (did I mention it was my first house rehab?)