Build It Archives - Page 3 of 54

Build It, Decorating, Furniture, Halloween, Halloween decorating, kreg jig

DIY Spider Stool

Halloween is lurking around the corner like a stray black cat. Luckily I’m here with the perfect project for Halloween that will use up some of your scrap wood pieces. Let’s make a DIY Spider Stool!

DIY Spider Stool

I have a spooky little spider project today being that Halloween is on the horizon. I’m Jaime from JaimeCostiglio.com and I’m here to show you how to build this cute little spider stool.

We all know Miss Muffet sat on a tuffet, when along came a spider —but, this time we’ll turn that nursery rhyme on its head. Let’s sit on that spider instead! This little stool is perfect for adding some themed decor to your kid’s playroom or a great spot to rest the treats near the front door on Halloween. This spider stool is fairly simple to make and although most spiders have eight legs this one only has six. Shhh, don’t tell anyone. If you truly have an aversion to spiders, you can always paint the body red with black spots and it would make a cute little ladybug stool.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

1 – 2″ x 12″ cut to 16″ long scrap wood (spider body)
2 – 2″ x 2″ x 6″ board (legs)
tape measure
pencil
jigsaw
miter saw
wood glue
pocket hole jig
2 ½” pocket hole screws
2 – 1″ circular dowel pieces cut to 1/2″ long (eyes if desired)
black spray paint

Instructions:

Step 1: Sketch the spider body shape on the 2×12. You can draw a large oval for the body and trace a drink glass or can for the head. The full length of the body and head equals 16″. The width is 11 ¼”.

Step 2: Use a jigsaw to cut out the spider body. Go very slow through the 1 ½” thick material and flip over to refine your cut if necessary.

Step 3: Cut 6 legs with 5-degree bevel at both ends, parallel measuring 17″ from end to end.

Layout the legs on the underside of the body inset 1/2″ from the edge.

Apply wood glue to the top of each leg and attach legs using 2 ½” pocket hole screws.

Step 4: Sand the stool, then finish with black spray paint.

For an extra spooky factor paint 1″ circular dowel pieces bright red and glue onto the head portion.

Hope you enjoyed this fun spider stool project! If you have more scrap wood, why not make some more spider friends or insect friends for your DIY Spider Stool!

Hi, I’m Jaime and I write JaimeCostiglio.com, a DIY project focused blog with an emphasis on building, painting and sewing. All my life I’ve been painting, drawing, crafting and making things. I grew up in Minnesota and then majored in Studio Arts at a liberal arts college on the East Coast. While there, I worked in the costume shop for the theater department, met my now husband of 18 years and then went on to work for an interior design firm in New York City. We have 3 young children and now that they are all school age I have shifted my focus to do what I love – build, paint and sew. The real turning point came when we renovated our kitchen in the summer of 2010. One project led to another and I started blogging about all my projects one by one which has ultimately led to a small business.

My goal with each project is to work smart, efficient and economical. I love a good challenge whether it be designing a build to fit the space (entry locker unit), solving a logistical solution (portable lego tray), constructing a craft using unconventional supplies (plastic tablecloth rosette garland) or just a simple makeover with paint (front door makeover). And I firmly believe you can do it too which is why write a majority of my posts as tutorials in an effort to share my experience with readers.

You can connect with me on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, YouTube, and Instagram.

Read all of Jaime’s Pretty Handy Tutorials.

Pin for later!

If you liked this tutorial, you’ll probably also love these cute little DIY toddler stools:

September 28, 2020/3 Comments/by Jaime Costiglio

Bed, bedroom, Build It, DIY, Furniture, Guest room, Master Bedroom

DIY Platform Bed

Build this simple DIY platform bed for your home!! This platform bed is a minimalist’s dream and it fits in perfectly with the new and trending BoHo decor style.

DIY Platform Bed

Hey everyone, this is Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to show you how to build an adorable platform bed. This is the bed I built for my daughter in about an hour and a half. In my home, we are once again changing my girls’ bedrooms (because why wouldn’t I take down the uber-cute loft beds I just built them back in March?! )My kiddos are lucky I’m a sucker for building furniture. Be sure to follow me on Instagram if you want to keep up with all my furniture building adventures!

Since my girls are moving into separate bedrooms we decided each would have a queen size mattress. We purchased a queen mattress without the box spring in the interest of saving money. But, all the platform bed frames I found were either too expensive or too short. I still wanted her bed to be at a standard height so I decided to throw together this really simple platform bed.

The simplicity and natural look of the popular BoHo style pairs really nicely with the bedding for my daughter’s room. I used the more expensive pine boards from the local big box store (less knot holes and higher quality) to construct the bed legs and frame. These boards are so pretty and I love the color so I chose not to paint, stain, or topcoat them. This is why you won’t find a “Finish” step in this tutorial. But, feel free to finish your bed however you like! Let’s make it!

How to Build a DIY Platform Bed

Materials:

4 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′ board
2 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ common boards
10 – 1″ x 4″ x 6′ common boards (bed slats)
2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
Wood glue
1 ¼” wood screws
2 ½” wood screws
painter’s tape
wood putty

Tools:

Cut list:

Bed legs:

8 – 1″ x 4″ @ 12″
4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 13 ¼”

Bed Frame:

2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 60″
2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 80″
2 – 1″ x 2″ @ 75 ¼”

Slats and center support:

10 – 1″x 4″ @59 7/8″
1 – 2″ x 4″ @ 78 ½”
3 – 2″ x 4″ @12″

Instructions:

Step 1 – Build the Platform Legs

The legs for this bed are meant to provide a base for the bed frame to rest on and attach to. Attach two 1″ x 4″ x 12″ boards at a 90 degree angle to each other with a 2″ x 2″ x 13 ¼” board glued into the center for added support as shown below.

I chose to use my table saw and cut the 1″ x 4″ x12″ boards at 45 degrees along one long edge to create a miter joint between the two boards. This creates a cleaner look but you are more than welcome to use a butt joint instead. Look at the pictures below to see the difference.

If you are also choosing to bevel the corners of the bed legs then continue reading to see how I put this joint together with ease. If not, go ahead and assemble the legs using the butt joint, wood glue, and brad nails.

Mitered Joint Leg Assembly:

After cutting all eight 1″ x 4″ x 12″ leg boards to 45 degrees, add two pieces of painters tape to the back of the board running perpendicular to the beveled edge.

Set the board down on your work surface, sticky side of the tape facing up, and place another leg board with the beveled edge touching the first board’s beveled edge, also being sure to align the top and bottom of the boards. Press down firmly so the tape sticks to both boards.

Add an even bead of glue to both beveled surfaces and then lift one board as if closing a book. The two beveled edges will meet and the tape will hold it in place.

Now place your 2″ x 2″ x 13 ¼” board in the corner of this joint using wood glue. Shoot the brad nails through the 1″ x 4″ into the 2″ x 2″ to secure in place. No need to use screws here as there is plenty of surface area for the wood glue to create a strong joint (once cured). Congratulations, you completed one leg for the platform bed frame to rest on!

Repeat these steps for the other 3 legs. After the legs are built, use wood putty to fill in the brad holes and sand smooth.

Step 2- Building the Bed Frame Components

Let’s build the side rail supports for the bed slats to rest upon. Start by marking the center of the 1″ x 4″ x 80″ board and the center of the 1″ x 2″ x 75 ¼” board.

Lay the 75 1/4″ board along the bottom of the 80″ board and align the two center marks. Using wood glue and 1 ¼” wood screws fasten the 1″ x 2″ x 75 ¼” board to the 1″ x 4″ x 80″. Repeat for the other side rail support.

Step 3: Building the center support

The center support will run parallel to the side rails (and perpendicular to the bed slats) in the center of the bed. Therefore, it will run between the headboard and footboard of the bed frame.

Pull out your 2″ x 4″ x 78 1/2″ board (this is your center support). Now pull out the 2″ x 4″ x 12″ pieces and evenly space them under the 2 x 4 center support. Use 2 ½” wood screws to secure the 2″ x 4″ x 12″ legs under the center support).

Note: You might notice in later pictures that my center support looks a little different than what is shown below. I accidentally cut my legs too short and had to add another 2 x 4 to the bottom of the legs to raise it to the correct height. Oops!

Step 4: Assembly Time

Pre-drill 2 holes into each end of the 1″ x 4″ x 80″ side rails where you will attach the headboard and footboard. (If you don’t have much room to work, you can do this step shortly after building the side rails. This will make assembly easier when you’re up in a small bedroom.)

Carefully bring all of the components up to the bedroom. Don’t forget to grab your drill, 1 ¼” wood screws, and brad nailer.

Assemble the bed frame by attaching the side rails to the headboard and footboard pieces. Drive the 1 ¼” wood screws through the pre-drilled holes you made.

(Note: You may have noticed the scrap 1″ x 2″ boards attached to my headboard and footboard below. I did this extra step for my bed because I like using up all my scrap pieces as much as possible, but structurally it doesn’t really make a difference. If you do this added step be sure to allow for this additional thickness when building the center support.)

Lift the frame and place a leg into each of the four corners of the bed frame. Attach the frame to the legs using 1 ¼” wood screws. You should use 2 screws per leg (one on each side of the corner). This will secure the legs in place firmly and prevent any rotating.

Set the center support in the middle of the bed frame.

Lay your 1″ x 4″ bed slats on top of the side rail and center support. Evenly space the slats across the bed frame. Attached the slats to the center support using 2 brad nails for each. (Or to be able to disassemble the bed easier in the future, pre-drill holes through the end of each slat and into the side rail support board. Then drive a screw in to hold it in place.)

Step 5: Sanding the corners

Hand sand the bottom two corners of the frame to avoid any injuries to shins, legs, and bedding.

Step 6: Make the Bed

Lay the mattress onto the bed frame. Then make the bed and get ready to watch the new owner get a good night’s sleep.

See the “I love your whole life” sign on the wall? You can learn how I make my own signs! Click over to view my tutorial for making a DIY Quote Sign. I even have a trick for adding faux-shiplap detail.

If you’re not ready to make the bed right now, pin this image for later!

If you liked this build, you’ll also like Brittany’s Farmhouse Style King Bed with Storage drawers:

Stay tuned as I bring you more tutorials for the furniture that I am creating for my girls’ bedrooms! The adorable side table pictured alongside the platform bed is coming next month. Thanks for building with me.

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom and, registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the pieces we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips and tricks.

Making something beautiful with your own two hands through a little preparation and determination is an amazing feeling and I hope to bring inspiration and know-how to those looking to tackle a big or small project.
I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, and Youtube to see what I am working on right now.

September 16, 2020/1 Comment/by In Her Garage

Antique Heart Pine Flooring, Build It, DIY, fireplace, Fix It, weatherstripping

Build a Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper

I’m a little bit of a fanatic when it comes to drafts. (Remember the time I weather-stripped my garage doors?) Over time I’ve addressed most of the pesky cracks and crevices that invite cold air into our home. But, there was one draft that I’ve been meaning to serve an eviction notice to since the first winter we lived in our house. Today I’ll show you how to build a fireplace insert draft stopper!

Build a Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper

If you have an old wood-burning stover, or even one converted to gas logs, you likely know this old fireplace can be the source of cold air and drafts in the winter. Even with the damper closed, there is a draft that escapes into the room.

You can’t weatherstrip the damper (that would be a fire hazard), so I solved the issue by building a rustic reclaimed wood fireplace insert to stop the draft.

Want to build your own fireplace insert draft stopper? It’s not hard and you can complete it in an afternoon!

Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper Materials:

Rigid foam insulation
4′ x 4′ Pegboard or masonite
Tape measure
Edge Cushion edge bumpers (in the baby proofing aisle)
Ear muffs (or ear plugs)
Eye protection
Caulk gun
Construction adhesive
Utility knife
Pencil
Kreg Jig
Speed square (optional)
Pocket hole screws
Circular saw with Kreg Rip Cut (or table saw or jigsaw)
Finish nailer
1.25″ finish nails for the nail gun
1×3’s, 1×4’s, 1×6’s or other reclaimed lumber
Staple gun and 3/8″ staples

Notes: I chose pegboard because it was slightly cheaper and weighed less than the masonite but was still rigid enough to hold the reclaimed wood. You can ask a Lowe’s employee to cut down the rigid foam insulation for you so you can fit it in your car. You can also have your pegboard cut at Lowe’s if you know your measurements upfront. I chose to use the Kreg Rip Cut because I was anxious to try it out. I liked how it worked and it was a good option if you don’t have a table saw or track saw. Finally, adding the reclaimed lumber is not necessary, I just like the look. Another option would be to buy foam insulation and wrap it with fabric and batting and simply fit it in the fireplace opening.

Instructions:

Start by measuring your fireplace opening. (Pssst. You can see that our bricks are faux painted in this picture. Learn how I painted my fireplace back to brick without sand-blasting!)

Check the width of the edge bumper (the one I used is 1/4 inch) and subtract that amount from three sides of the fireplace opening measurements.

Mark the cut lines on your pegboard material.

Lay the pegboard on top of the excess foam insulation and set the saw blade depth just below the pegboard.

Cut the pegboard to size. (If you don’t own a rip cut or track saw, you can make your own DIY Track Saw for your circular saw here!)

Check the fit of the cut pegboard with the edge bumper inside the fireplace opening. The pegboard should be loose, but allow the edge bumper to compress against the sides for a snug fit.

Building the Reclaimed Lumber Frame:

Using the same dimensions as the pegboard, cut your frame pieces (miter cut the corners for a clean look). 1″ x 4″ cedar boards worked well for the frame.

Use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes in the corners. Clamp the corners (use a square to maintain true 90 degree angles) and drive the pocket screws into place.

Cut a vertical support piece for inside the center of the frame and attach it with pocket hole joinery.

Cut your reclaimed lumber edges at 45 degree angles. Lay each piece inside the frame and use the speed square to scribe a line where you need to cut.

Dry fit each piece and continue until you’ve filled the frame.

When all the pieces are cut, set them in the frame.

Time to assemble the “sandwich”. Lay something (scrap plywood, pegboard or foam insulation) on top of the reclaimed lumber design and flip it over so the backside is facing up. Use a liberal amount of construction adhesive on the back of the reclaimed lumber frame.

Lay the pegboard onto the reclaimed lumber and press firmly in place.

Lay the rubber edge bumper onto the side of the frame/pegboard sandwich and measure the area for the rigid foam insulation. Cut insulation to size. It should be inset on the sides and top to allow room for the bumper (as shown in the photo below.)

Add construction glue to the pegboard. Then lay the rigid foam on top of the pegboard.

Flip the frame over and double secure the frame to the pegboard with finish nails. Be sure that the air pressure is turned down so the nails don’t pierce through the back of the insulation.

Apply the double-stick tape that came with the bumper to the sides of the frame.

Cut the foam bumper for the first side and press it onto the double-stick tape. Cut the next side and notch out where there are any overlaps.

Firmly secure the bumper to the sides of the frame with a staple gun. This is a necessary step because with repeated removal of the insert, the bumper will eventually come off.

Feel free to add a handle or decorative pull to the front of your insert.

Press the insert into your fireplace and stop the drafts forever!

As a bonus, it also eliminates that big gaping black hole in the living room. And the insert is easily removed to enjoy a warm fire.

This Fireplace Insert Draft Stopper looks good year-round. My only regret is not making it sooner.

Winter is coming, help a friend stop drafts too by pinning this image!

Want more ways to save on energy bills and prepare for winter? Here are 21 Ways to Get Your Home Ready for Winter.

September 14, 2020/43 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, Home Maintenance, Millie's Remodel

Millie’s Remodel Update: The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed

You might remember the ugly Frankenshed behind the Millie’s Remodel house. It’s finally time to try to move this ugly monster. Whether we’re successful or not, I’ll share the Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed!

Millie’s Remodel: The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed

A long long time ago (back before we had children), Pretty Handsome Guy and I were making a move from Philadephia to Charlottesville, VA. We packed our rented UHaul full to the brim and were ready to start the new adventure.

We were backing the truck out when we heard a loud scraping sound and suddenly the truck was stuck. The front wheels were still in the driveway, but the back of the truck had bottomed out on the crowned pavement (turns out a road really isn’t flat from side to side.) We were blocking traffic and didn’t know what to do. I tried calling UHaul but they said it was operator error and we needed to call a large truck tow company.

As I was searching around for someone to help, our neighbor took one look at the situation and ran to the back of the driveway. He came back and created a lever with some blocks and a 4×4 post. Then he put one end under the bumper and proceeded to perch on the other end of the 4×4 bouncing up and down. He told Pretty Handsome Guy to give the truck a little gas. Although my neighbor couldn’t have weighed more than 125 lbs., the lever gave us enough lift to get us unstuck.

Here we are about twenty years later, and I still remember that 4×4 lever trick! But, I have a few more tricks up my sleeve, because although you might be able to lift a shed with a 4×4 and some blocks, how do you move it from one side of your yard to the other?

The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed:

Today, in the Millie’s Remodel updates we will attempt to move the Frankenshed.

This eyesore sits directly outside the back bedroom and I can’t even express how ugly it is with poor construction and ugly siding. Then there’s the piece of plexiglass screwed over the window opening.

But, the worst thing about this shed is the siding that is cracked, and the caulk used to fill the seams. Now you can understand why I don’t have high hopes for moving this monster in one piece. I kept the dumpster over the weekend because I think there’s a very good chance this shed will fall apart the minute we try to move it. If that happens, I’ll cut it apart in pieces and top off the dumpster.

But, hey, you’re no idiot. I’m sure you are thinking, “Brittany, if you title this post How to Move a Shed, that means you probably were successful. ”

Well, you’ll just have to see if you’re right and watch the video:

Materials:

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 16′ (or as long as you can transport)
3 – 4″ x 4″ x 10′
6-8 Cinderblocks (depending on the size of your shed, you need least 6 to set the shed)
4 – 3″ PVC pipes (at least as long as the length of your floor joists)
Drainage Gravel
Carjack
Level

Tips on Moving a Shed:

Empty the shed (less weight is better)
Have a helper or two
Use longer lumber for better leverage
Measure and determine the final resting location
Make sure the final location is clear of obstacles (especially low branches)
Pick a path and clear any obstacles
Use 2x4s to act as tracks
Use large PVC pipes to act as rollers
PVC pipes roll best when perpendicular to the floor joists
Elevate the shed on blocks off the ground (to prevent rot) unless you have a concrete pad

How to Move a Shed:

Set a block near the shed and slip the end of a 4×4 under the shed while resting on the block If you can’t get the 4×4 underneath, raise the shed up with a car jack, then slip the 4×4 underneath.

Lift the shed and slide 2x4s under the shed in the direction you want to roll the shed.

Set one PVC pipe under the shed in the middle of the shed. Release the 4×4 slowly. If the shed doesn’t tip toward you, you can add a little weight to the front to help it tip.

Lay two more PVC pipes on top of the 2x4s under the shed perpendicular to the 2×4’s and to the floor joists. Then slip one more PVC pipe in toward the front.

Remove the blocks and the 4×4 (but keep it nearby). Push your shed and let the PVC pipes roll underneath. As soon as one PVC pipe pops out the back, bring it to the front and roll onto it.

To turn the shed, put the 4×4 inside the door frame against one corner. Press against the other end of the 4×4 outside the door frame to pivot the shed. (You can see how this is done in the video.) Adjust your 2×4 tracks and place the PVC pipes perpendicular to the floor joists, then push the shed.

Perpendicular or Parallel to the Joists, why does it matter?

When the PVC pipes are placed perpendicular to the joists, the floor framing touches the pipes in multiple spots (as shown below.) This allows the shed to roll very easily.

The pipes can roll when parallel to the joists, but it’s much harder because the framing is not resting on the pipes at as many points, and the PVC may bow in between the blocking. You can certainly use the pipes parallel to the joists for pushing the shed out into an open area where you can then set the pipes perpendicular to the joists.

A Makeover for Frankenshed:

To clean up the look of the shed, my assistant Brett built a new door. Then he added trim and used the old bathroom window for a new window. Once my painter painted the trim and siding to match the house, it was unrecognizable.

I can’t believe this is the same shed, can you?

The old patchy privacy fence between the neighbor’s property was removed (it practically fell down when we removed the patched section).

Brett installed a new PVC privacy fence to match the one in the front of the property.

Now that the exterior has a beautiful front and backyard, it’s time to start focusing on finishing the interior. Stay tuned for more Millie’s Remodel updates!

A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

July 20, 2020/0 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Build It, cabinet, DIY, DIY tools, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Tool Tutorials, Uncategorized

How to Make a Half-Lap Joint with a Miter Saw

How to Make a DIY Half Lap Joint using Miter Saw

Want to add another joint to your woodworking skillset? Today I’ll show you how to create a simple DIY half-lap joint with your miter saw.

Half-Lap Joint with your Miter Saw

Hi! It’s Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to teach you an easy way to create a half-lap joint to add to your DIY skill set. The half-lap joint is versatile and super strong.

Wondering what a half-lap joint even is? Put simply, a half-lap joint is a joint between two boards that are halved together so that a flush surface results. Check out the pictures below for two popular ways half-lap joints are used. Best of all this joint only requires wood glue to hold it together.

I have used this style of joint when a butt joint or pocket-hole joint isn’t possible. It’s helpful to use when working with thinner material or in tight spaces. Let’s learn how to make a half-lap joint!

Materials:

2 boards to be joined together
2 sacrificial boards for use at the miter saw
Wood glue
120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

Sliding miter Saw with depth stop

Instructions:

Step 1: Mark your boards

Place your boards over one another in the orientation they will be joined.
Mark out the width of the overlap on each board.

Step 2: Set up your miter saw

Place a sacrificial board against the miter saw fence, with the face flat (as seen in the video below). This board should be flat and square. You will need this because you are not cutting through the board to be used in your project and thus the miter saw will not cut the back portion of the board you are cutting. The scrap piece will push your board out so that the miter saw will cut halfway down from the front to the back. If you do a test cut without the scrap board you’ll see what I mean.
Next, use your saw’s depth stop control and adjust the depth to cut approximately halfway down into the first board to be cut. Use a scrap piece of wood for this step to make sure you have the depth you want before using the board that will be used in your project.
Adjust the miter angle at this time as well if you are not planning to cut at 90 degrees.

Step 3: Cut the first board

With your depth set and scrap board in place make your first cut into your board. Make sure you are minding which side of the marked lines your blade needs to cut!
After the first cut move the board slightly (about 1/8”) and create another cut right next to the first.
Continue moving and cutting until you have created all the cuts needed between the two width lines you marked out previously.
Dry fit the second board into the first to make sure the width is correct and make any necessary adjustments.
Use sandpaper to smooth out any ridges left from the saw.

Step 4: Cut the second board

If you cut exactly halfway through the first board then you will not have to do any adjustments for this step and you can cut the second board exactly as you cut the first.
But, if you are like me you didn’t cut the first board perfectly and the depth will need to be adjusted slightly for the second board. This is simple.
The cut for the second board will need to be the depth of what you DIDN’T cut from the first board. Use a piece of scrap to fine-tune this depth before cutting the board you will use.
Now that the depth has been set for the second board you can cut the half-lap into the board just like you did for the first. Again, being mindful of which side of the lines your blade is cutting.
Dry fit the two boards together to be sure you have a snug fit and the boards create a flat surface.

Step 5: Glue together

Apply glue to both lap joints in each board and fit them together.
Apply downward pressure to the joint and allow the glue to dry.

There you have it!! You have expanded your talents and created a very strong half-lap joint for your next project. Nice work!

Pin this graphic for future reference:

New to using the miter saw or need a refresher? Check out the Pretty Handy Girl’s How to Use a Miter Saw tutorial to get you all caught up!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

July 15, 2020/0 Comments/by In Her Garage