The Real Truth about using Pallet Wood

The Real Truth about using Pallet Wood

The Real Facts about Using Pallet Wood

Pallet wood is EVERYWHERE! It’s hard to browse Pinterest without stumbling on a pallet wood project. Everyone and their cousin’s best friend have experimented with and built amazing things using pallet wood. Admit it, you’ve seen those beautiful projects and began driving behind your local shopping centers looking for those wooden freebies. Sadly, most pallet project creators won’t tell you the Real Facts about Using Pallet Wood. Put your mind at ease knowing that I’ll tell you the bare wood truths about using pallet wood. Then the next time you find yourself in a back alley attempting to haul that pallet into your trunk, you can weigh the facts.

How to Make an Air Conditioner Screen from Pallets

A few weeks ago I slaved for over an hour trying to get those free pallets to relinquish their prized slats. As I bent over one pallet, sweating and swearing, I asked myself, “Wouldn’t it have been easier to spend $2-3 per board at Lowe’s?”

As I was building this porch swing with pallet wood, I began to create a list of the pros and cons of using pallet wood. By the time the paint had dried on the swing, I knew I had to be honest and share with you these facts so you could determine if using pallet wood is worth the effort and risks.

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

Benefits of Using Pallet Wood:

1. First and foremost, pallet wood is usually FREE!

2. Environmentally speaking, you are keeping pallets out of the landfill. Yay for being eco-friendly.

3. Pallet boards often have a beautiful rustic patina (pallet board on the left, new pine board on the right.)

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

4. The wood is usually strong.

5. It’s stylish and popular because the rustic industrial look is in style right now.

6. Everyone’s doing it—wait a minute! Just because everyone is doing it doesn’t mean you should jump on the bandwagon!

Why You Might NOT want to use Pallet Wood:

1. Actually removing pallet wood planks is difficult. Pallet wood is held on with spiral nails that are hard to remove without breaking or damaging the pallet wood. (Not to mention breaking your spirit!) Using a hammer and/or a regular pry bar is tedious and not super effective. You would be better off using a deck wrecking tool like this one. (affiliate link) 

Facts About Using Pallet Wood
2. Harvesting pallet wood often damages the planks or causes them to split. You can salvage pallet wood using a circular saw and this technique, but your boards will end up being shorter.

3. Yes, you can use a reciprocating saw and/or multi-tool with a metal cutting blade, but getting a clean cut is difficult (usually you cut into some of the wood). And you are left with cut off nails that need to be removed, filed down, or avoided.

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

4. Pallet wood may be treated with chemicals to prevent deterioration. If you can find markings on the pallet, you might identify if the pallet was treated by looking for these codes.

5. You can never truly be sure what has spilled on the pallet and has absorbed into the wood. I’ll let your imagination wander. You should consider how you’d feel if you found out the pallet had a chemical spilled on it, animal urine, feces, or raw food. (For this reason, it’s a good idea to seal the wood with a polyurethane or polycrylic if you decide to use pallet wood.)

6. Pallet wood is not perfect. It usually is low grade wood and has dings, cracks, splits, or large splinters.

7. Pallet wood may have staples and tacks that will need removal.

8. Pallet wood isn’t normally smooth and may need extra sanding to get a usable plank.

9. Pallet wood is rarely straight.

10. The planks aren’t usually a uniform thickness. To achieve uniform thickness, they’ll need to be planed. But, make sure you have removed all nails and staples or you risk damaging your planer blades.

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

11. When you’re done harvesting pallet wood you’ll need to find somewhere to dispose of the pieces you don’t use. Most waste companies won’t take pallets because they label them as construction waste.

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

Now that you know the pros and cons of pallet wood, you can weigh them and decide if you want to use that free pallet wood or buy new boards from your local home improvement store.

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

After all, pine framing lumber is cheap! And luckily, you can fake the age of new wood using this tutorial:

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

Lest you think I’m scaring you away from using pallet wood, here are a few cool projects you can make with it.

Clad walls with pallet wood to create a beautiful feature wall:

DIY Twinkling Pendant Light | Pretty Handy Girl

Use pallet wood to create a bread crate display shelf:

12 Inexpensive Ways to Decorate a Bathroom | Pretty Handy Girl

Or make a serving tray out of pallet wood (be sure that your pallet wood is clean, chemical free and always use a plate under the food.)

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

What are your thoughts and experiences with using pallet wood? Have you made anything using pallet wood? Would you do it again? Let’s open up the conversation in the comments below!

Facts About Using Pallet Wood

 

How to Make a Super Simple Bar Stool

How to Make a Super Simple Bar StoolHow to Make a Super Simple Bar Stool

Have you ever wanted a bar stool that is a specific height or stain color? I bet you thought you’d have to search all over town for just the right bar stool, right? Well today, I’m back again from Woodshop Diaries and I am excited to show you how to build this super simple DIY bar stool! Yes, you can do this. . . I’ll show you how!

I built this stool to go with my large craft desk when I remodeled my home office space and I’ve had lots of questions on how I made it.  Unfortunately, at the time, I didn’t take any photos for a tutorial.  But after so many questions, I decided to make another one just so I could show you how to make your own!

Ready to get started?

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Cut List:

  • (4) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 24″ with 7 degree mitered ends parallel
  • (2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 7″ with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
  • (2) 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 12 ¼” with 7 degree mitered ends NOT parallel
  • (1) 11″ diameter round seat

Step 1:  Cut Pieces

Start out by cutting all your stool pieces using the cut list above.  Miter all the 24″ legs at 7 degrees (parallel to each other.)

Then you will miter cut the 7″ and the 12 ¼” pieces NOT parallel to each other.  (One edge of these pieces will be shorter than the other side as shown in the picture above.)

Step 2:  Mark and Trim Notches

Grab the shorter pieces (they will become your braces.)  Lay them out as shown below and use a speed square to measure and mark a center line and ¾” to each side of the center line.  Next, mark ¾” down from the top and bottom edge to find the horizontal center as well.  Make an X mark on the part you will be removing.  You need to remove one “chunk” from the top on one piece and one “chunk” from the bottom on the other piece so they will fit together.  Do this for both the short and the long brace pieces.

Using a jig saw, make several cuts both along the outside lines and between them.  Make sure to only cut on the side where you marked your Xs, not all the way through the board.

Ignore the extra lines in the photo above.  I accidentally marked 3/8″ on each side of the center instead of the ¾” I was supposed to.  Whoops!

Use your hammer and chisel to knock out the “chunk” pieces.  Do this for all four of 2×2 braces.

Make sure the braces fit together nicely.  Chisel out anything that keeps them from fitting together.  Once you get them to fit, put a little glue in the notches; fit the brace together; and add a 1 ¼” screw. Repeat for the second brace.

Step 3:  Attach Legs To Center “X” Braces

Place your small “X” brace upside down (longest side up) on your work surface.  Add glue to all the ends and place a leg on each one.  Attach the legs with a 2 ½” wood screw.

Once all four legs are screwed into the small “X”, place the big “X” between the legs toward the bottom of the legs. Make sure the longest side of the “X” faces the bottom of the legs.  Position the “X” so that it is about 1 ¾” from the bottom (or top since it is upside down) of each leg.  Glue and screw in place just like with the small “X”.

Step 4:  Add the Seat

Take a piece of scrap ¾” plywood or 1×12 (anything that is at least 11″ square or larger.)  Cut out a circle about 11″ in diameter.  You can find a large round object to trace the shape if you wish.  Use a jig saw to cut out the circle.  Place it upside down on your work surface and center your stool legs and brace on top.  Use 2″ wood screws to attach through the small “X” as shown below.

Step 5: Finish the Stool

Putty the screw holes and sand.  Paint or stain your stool as desired.  I left my new stool natural but I stained the top of my office stool using Minwax Puritan Pine, and painted the bottom Sherwin Williams Naval.  Then, I used some masking tape, and taped off my legs to spray with gold spray paint for a gold dipped look.  Be careful if you try this that you have the top of your legs covered completely so you don’t overspray onto them!

And that’s it! You now have your own super simple customized bar stool!

What color would you make your bar stool?

Shara's Signature

~Read more of Shara’s Tutorials~

 

If you liked this tutorial, I know you’ll love:

Cute DIY Animal Toddler Stools | Pretty Handy Girl

Building a Striped Porch Swing using Pallet Wood & Krazy Glue

When I first laid eyes on the backyard of my investment house, I pictured a porch swing hanging from the giant tree in the back yard. That image never left my mind, and I knew I’d have to build a porch swing soon so I could enjoy sitting on the swing in between copious amounts of demolition labor. Being on a tight budget, I didn’t want to buy a new swing. I challenged myself to use as much free wood as I could get my hands on.  Then Krazy Glue, who is sponsoring this post, threw on an additional challenge. They dared me to give up my conventional nail fasteners and use Krazy Glue to secure all the slats to the swing frame. Apparently Krazy Glue is one fast-drying glue that creates an instant bond when applied and can hold up to 2,000 pounds. Big claims meant I was anxious to put Krazy Glue to the test!

To start, I harvested the slats off of three pallets. (There are several ways to harvest pallet wood, a few of which I explain in this post.)

When all was said and done I had enough pallet wood to create all the slats on the swing. (And luckily I had a few scrap 2 x 4’s to build the swing frame, so my lumber costs were minimal.) I developed a plan to utilize and feature the varying widths of pallet wood, but used Ana White’s basic porch swing plan for inspiration and overall dimensions.

Ready to learn how to Build your own Striped Porch Swing using Pallet Wood? Let’s do this before the weather gets too cold to enjoy it.

Lumber:

  • 5 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′
  • 3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ (or use salvaged pallet wood)
  • 1 – 2″ x 2″ x 4′

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2″ x 4″ x 4′
  • 4 – 2″ x 4″ x 18″
  • 1 – 2″ x 2″ x 45
  • 4 – 2″ x 4″ x 19 ¾”
  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 11 ¼”
  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 22 ½”
  • 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 21″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 21″ long)
  • 10 – 1″ x 4″ x 22″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 22″ long)
  • 4 – 1″ x 4″ x 48″ (if using pallet slats, use the widths you have, but cut to 48″ long)

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Instructions:

After you have harvested your pallet wood and removed any nails. Cut your lumber to size using the cut list above.

Assemble the Seat Frame:

To assemble the seat frame, layout the 2×4’s as shown below. Turn the two middle boards on their sides.

Assemble the seat as shown.

Secure the seat frame by gluing each end of the 18″ boards with Krazy Glue. Then pre-drill and drive 3″ wood screws through the front and back 48″ boards into the 18″ sides and support boards. Use the carpenter’s square to keep your corners square.

You may find it easier to clamp the frame together while drilling and driving screws.

Center your 2″ x 2″ x 45″ board on top of the center supports in the seat frame.

Apply Krazy Glue to each end. Then pre-drill and secure the center support with one 2 ½” wood screw on each end.

Assemble the Back Support:

Layout the seat back assembly as shown below. Line up the 19 3/4″ boards with the two center supports on the seat frame assembly.

Drill two pocket holes into one end of each 2″ x 4″ x 19 ¾” board. Add Krazy Glue to the ends of the 19 ¾” boards. Drive 2 ½” pocket screws into the pocket holes to attach the upright supports to the 48″ board.

Lift the back assembly and clamp to the seat frame. Check that the back assembly lines up with each side of the seat. Then remove the clamp.

Squeeze Krazy Glue onto the inside edge of the upright supports. Clamp in place and pre-drill holes through the uprights into the seat frame. Then secure with 2 ½” wood screws.

Assembling the Porch Swing Arms:

Drill pocket holes into one end of each 2″ x 4″ x 22 ½” and the 2″ x 4″ x 11 ¼” boards. Apply Krazy Glue into the elbow joint where the arm pieces overlap each other.

To attach the arm rests, start by making sure the porch swing seat is level. Set the arm in place and level the arm rest. Clamp the arm rest to the frame and secure the arm rest to the back assembly using 2 ½” pocket screws.

Then pre-drill and secure the front of the arm rest to the seat frame with 2 ½” wood screws (taking care to avoid the screws holding the seat frame together.)

Now is the perfect time to fill all the holes with wood putty.

Allow the putty to dry and sand smooth.

Wipe off the porch swing with a damp rag to remove any sawdust.

You may choose to prime and paint your swing before adding the slats. If you are using Krazy Glue to adhere the slats, do not prime or paint the back of the slats or the frame pieces that will be glued. The Krazy Glue must bond with raw wood.

Adding Seat and Back Slats:

Cut your slats (or pallet wood) to the lengths in the cut list. Arrange the slats on the seat and back of your swing.

For ease of installation, I created a spacer with two shims. You’ll need to play with your slats to make sure they are evenly spaced. Ideally you’ll want about 1/2″ between slats.

Krazy Glue the Porch Swing Slats:

Time to put the Krazy Glue to the test! I made a quick video to show you how I used the Krazy Glue to adhere the slats and to test the strength of the bond:

Add a small bead of Krazy Glue to the seat frame assembly underneath each slat (or to the underside of the slats.)

Press the slat in place and hold for about 30 seconds. If the slat does not sit flat (if it rocks slightly) you may use a small nail to secure the slat.

Repeat with the remaining slats, being sure to space them evenly. Allow at least 10 minutes for the Krazy Glue to set before moving your swing.

To attach the hanging hardware, drill a 3/8″ hole through the outer upright supports of the back. Insert the 6″ screw eye through the hole, thread a washer and nut onto the end.

Repeat the process, drilling into the front edge of the side supports. You can see the location of the hanging hardware below:

Finish priming your porch swing.

Paint your porch swing any color you like. (The paint I used is Magnolia Home Interior Paint by Kilz: Shiplap, Texas Summer, Amber, Water Garden, and Magnolia Green.) It helps to cover the slats on either side of the one you are painting with painter’s tape (if you are using multiple colors).

Seal your porch swing with a varnish for added weather protection.

Hang your porch swing from a ceiling joist, large tree, or pergola.

Enjoy a beautiful new spot to sit and swing in your yard!

Notes: The Krazy Glue bond was super strong when the slat was flat against the frame. However, there were two slats that had some twist to them, so the bond could not form properly. Those two slats did receive nails for additional hold. My swing is exposed to the elements, but for best results hang your swing under protective cover. If the wood rots around the glued joints, there is the potential for the parts to separate.

Please pin this image to share it with the world, because everyone deserves a beautiful spot to sit!

Disclosure: This is a sponsored post for Krazy Glue. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I was compensated for my time and efforts to create this tutorial. I am very particular about the brands I represent. Because I value your trust, you will always be notified when you are reading a sponsored post on PrettyHandyGirl.com.

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

DIY Indoor/Outdoor Bench for $25

Building a dining bench with 2x4s and wood glue

Make This Bench from a Bed Frame

Floating TV ShelfHow to Build a Floating TV Shelf

Hey guys!  It’s Shara here again from Woodshop Diaries and I’m so excited to show you this cute new floating TV shelf I made to hold your TV and components!  It’s modern, sleek, and does its job without taking up a lot of space.  It also has two open cubbies to house DVD players, wireless routers, modems, etc.

Floating TV Shelf

This shelf is very easy to build and doesn’t require any special tools.  You can have it done in a couple hours and hung on the wall in about five minutes.

So are you ready to learn How to Build Your Own Floating TV Shelf?

Floating TV Shelf Materials:

Floating TV Shelf Cut List:

  • (1) 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 48″ (back of TV shelf frame)
  • (3) 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 10½” (TV shelf supports)
  • (2) ¾” x 12″ x 48″ (top and bottom of shelf)

Floating TV Shelf Instructions:

Step 1: Assemble Floating TV Shelf Frame

Depending on how tall you want your shelf, you can either use a 2″x 4″ (which would make the opening in your shelf 3 ½” tall).  Or you can use a 2″x 6″ (which would make the opening 5 ½” tall).  If you have a table saw, you can rip whatever size board to the custom height you want.  (For this build, I ripped a 2″x 6″ down to 4″ wide for my frame.)

Once you determine the width you want, cut a piece at 48″ long.  Then, cut your three pieces at 10 ½” long.

Floating TV Shelf

Glue, clamp and screw two of the short boards onto the ends of the long board.

Floating TV Shelf

Then glue and screw the third short board in the center using 2 ½” screws.  (Remember to pre-drill before screwing.) Your assembled shelf should look like this:

Floating TV Shelf

Floating TV Shelf

Step 2: Holes for Cables and Cords

Use a 1 ¼” or larger hole saw to drill a hole through the middle of the center shelf support.  This will allow cords to run between sections depending on where the power cords need to go.  (Make sure to avoid the screws holding the board in place when drilling your hole.)

Floating TV Shelf

Step 3: Add Plywood Top and Bottom to Frame

Use table saw or circular saw to cut the ¼ sheet of plywood in half to give you two 12″ x 48″ pieces. Sand the edges smooth. Apply edge banding to the plywood edges.  You can follow Brittany’s tutorial for finishing off plywood with edge-banding if you need more instructions.

Floating TV Shelf

Remove any excess banding with a sander to make your edges clean and smooth.

Floating TV Shelf

Determine where you will need holes for cords in the top and/or bottom of your floating shelf. Drill your holes in the plywood where needed.

Floating TV Shelf

Center the plywood on the shelf. Use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach the plywood to the shelf supports.  Flip the shelf over and repeat the process for the bottom.

Floating TV Shelf

Step 4:  Finish the TV Shelf

Putty all screw holes and sand the shelf well.  Paint or stain as desired.  (I stained my shelf using Minwax Early American and then dry-brushed white paint on top. Finally I used the sander to distress the shelf in random spots.

Floating TV Shelf

Step 5: Install

Grab a helper to hold the shelf during installation. Find the location you want your shelf to hang. Use a level to make sure the shelf is level. Locate at least 2 studs (3 is better) behind the shelf and use at least four (two per stud) 2 ½” screws to attach through the back of the shelf into the studs. And that’s it.  You’re done!

Floating TV Shelf

Such a simple, yet stylish and functional project!  What do you guys think?  Is this something you would try in your living room or bedroom for somewhere to set your TV without taking up a large footprint?  I love this idea!  I hope you enjoyed this project!

Pin this tutorial to share the DIY inspiration:

Floating TV Shelf

Shara's Signature~Read more of Shara’s Tutorials~

 

Green and purple hydrangeas in rustic wood trough. Build Your own Rustic Trough Centerpiece tutorial.

How to Build a Trough Centerpiece for less than $10!!!Build Your Own Wood Trough Centerpiece

Wood trough centerpieces are very popular right now and for good reason! They will work with any seasonal decor. Add grass and eggs and you have instant spring decor. Add sunflowers and you have just decorated your table for summer. Add pumpkins or dried hydrangeas for a pretty fall centerpiece. And for the holidays, tuck in pine boughs and pine cones.

Build Your Own Trough Centerpiece

But, if you’ve ever tried to buy a wood trough, you probably noticed the prices can be upwards of $50 or more. That’s hogwash! Let’s Build Your Own Trough Centerpiece for less than $10!

Materials:

Cut list:

  • 2 – 1″x 6″ x 32″
  • 2 – 1″ x 6″ x 3 ½”
  • 1 – 1″ x 4″ x 36″ (we will cut this to size during the tutorial.)

Instructions:

Cut your lumber to the dimensions above. Leave your 1″ x 4″ for now.

Cut Pieces for Rustic Wood Centerpiece trough.

Set up the sides of your trough and one end around the base piece (1″ x 4″ x 36″).

Dry fit wood box pieces together.

Set the second end on top of the base and mark where to cut the base piece to fit inside the sides and ends of the trough. Cut the base to size.

Mark cut line with pencil on trough bottom.

You should now have two long sides, two ends, and a base.

Cut trough pieces

Run a line of wood glue along the bottom of the sides and ends where it will meet the base.

Add wood glue along bottom edges of sides.

Set the sides and end pieces around the base and clamp in place.

Clamp box pieces together.

Nail the sides into the end pieces.

Nail sides of trough together.

Nail the sides into the base piece.

Nail sides to bottom piece.

Optional, use a planer or rough sandpaper to round the edges of your trough.

Shave off clean corners for rustic look.

Sand the trough smooth.

Sand smooth.

Congratulations, your trough centerpiece build it complete! That wasn’t hard was it?

Finished trough build.

Leave your trough raw. Or stain and paint it to give it a rustic look by following my video tutorial below!

Dry brush Fusion paint.

Add some flowers or seasonal decor and put your trough centerpiece on your table (or mantel or anywhere you want to display it.)

Do you like this trough centerpiece? What would you display in your’s?

I’ll be back later with a full tutorial on how I create the perfect aged and distressed look on my trough. See ya’ later alligator!

If you liked this tutorial, I know you’ll love this collection of 71 Practically Free Scrap Wood Projects!

71 Practically FREE Scrap Wood Projects

 

Pin for later!