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Build It, desk, distressing, DIY, DIY tools, Dremel, Giveaway, sander, Uncategorized

Folding Laptop and Writing Table Tutorial

With more of us working from home and needing to create a space to work, this folding laptop and writing table is just the thing you need to make any room into an office!

Folding Laptop and Writing Table Tutorial

My favorite place to write my tutorials is outside on our screen porch when the weather is pleasant. I love listening to the birds and feeling the breeze blow through the screens. Up until this weekend, I was using an old card table as a desk. But, it was large, awkward, and not the correct height for my needs. I wanted a table that was the perfect height and that could fold and store away when not in use. Enter the idea for thus folding laptop and writing table!

I enjoyed the challenge of designing plans for this simple farmhouse style folding laptop/writing table. The materials are simple 2 x 4’s and 3/4 inch plywood. The majority of the steps can be done using simple handheld tools like a drill, multi-tool, and a circular saw. (Feel free to use other tools or alter the plans to fit your size preferences.)

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Cut list:

Top:

3/4″ finish grade plywood cut to 18″ x 36″

Apron (use 1″ x 3″ boards or you can rip excess plywood):

2 – 1″ x 3″ cut to 14 1/2″
2 – 1″ x 3″ cut to 34″

Legs:

2 – 2″ x 4″ cut to 28 1/4″
2 – 2″ x 4″ cut to 26 3/4″
1 – 2″ x 2″ cut to 14 1/2″ (if ripping a 2″ x 2″ yourself, remember actual size is 1.5″ x 1.5″)
2 – 1″ x 4″ cut to 14 3/8″

Hardware:

Handle
2 – 2 1/2″ Barrel Bolts
4 – 2 1/2″ Utility Hinges
Finish nails 1 1/2″
4 – 1 1/4″ wood screws
Locking trunk lid hinge
1 ¼ Inch Pocket Hole Screws

Tools:

Dremel Multi-Max or any oscillating multi-tool
- Sanding head with sandpaper
- Wood flush cut blade
Dremel Ultra-Saw (or circular saw)
Kreg Jig
Chisel
Hammer
Drill
- Drill bit the same width as the barrel bolt
Nailgun(optional)
Iron
Carpenters Square
Combination square

Additional materials:

Sandpaper in 60, 180 & 220 grit
Wood Stain, Dark Walnut
Stainable Wood Filler
Putty Knife
Paintbrush
Damp rags
Paint
Flat Water-based Top Coat
Birch Edge Banding
Band-it Edge Trimmer
Scrap of wood
Piece of aluminum foil
Wood glue
Pencil

Instructions:

Cut your lumber per the above cut list.

Building the Apron:

Drill two holes in the ends of the front and back pieces of the apron. Drill pocket holes into the top of all the apron pieces (spaced approximately 8″ apart.)

Sand all edges and pocket holes on the apron pieces with a 60 grit sandpaper on the Dremel MultiMax.

Assemble the apron pieces. Pay attention to make sure all the pocket holes are facing the same direction to attach to the underside of the tabletop. The sides of the apron should be set inside the front and back pieces as shown below:

Secure the apron pieces with pocket hole screws.

Center the apron on the bottom side of the tabletop. Measure all sides to make sure they are even. Attach the apron to the tabletop with pocket hole screws.

Notching the legs:

Line up all four legs next to each other. Use a carpenter square to square up the bottoms. Mark 4″ up from the bottom of the legs. Line up the 1″ x 4″ with the mark and trace the other side onto the legs.

Set the combination square to the depth of the 1×4″ board (it should be 3/4″). Mark this depth on the sides of each leg to denote the area that needs to be removed.

Set the depth of your circular saw (or Ultra-Saw) to 3/4″ deep.

Cut stripes inside the guidelines you made on the legs with the Ultra-Saw.

Use a hammer and chisel to knock out the strips. Use your oscillating multi-tool with a wood flush cut blade to clean up the edges of the notch.

Test fit the 1×4″ boards into the legs. Shave off more if needed with the Multi-Max (or circular saw).

Set the 1″ x 4″ boards into the leg notches.

Secure the 1″ x 4″ boards with wood glue and finish nails.

Secure the cross piece 1″ x 4″ from the back side with one wood screw into each leg.

Connecting the Legs:

To allow the legs on the desk to fold neatly, one side has to be raised up to fold on top of the other legs. Use the 2″ x 2″ board you cut for this purpose.

Drill a pocket hole into each end of the 2×2″ board. Add wood glue where the 2×2 will rest. Tap the board into place.

Secure the board into the table apron with pocket screws.

Rest the shorter legs on top of the 2×2 board. Clamp or support the legs in place.

Attach the utility hinges to the top of the legs and the 2×2 support.

Rest the longer legs in place.

Attach the remaining two utility hinges to the top of the legs and the underside of the tabletop as shown below.

Test fold the legs to make sure they fold neatly and don’t rub on the sides of the apron. Make any adjustments to the hinges or sand the legs to eliminate rubbing now.

Add the lid support hinge to the bottom folding legs (the longer legs). Follow the directions on the package of the lid support for proper installation.

The opposite side will not accommodate a lid support. You need a barrel bolt to keep the legs from folding accidentally. Glue and nail a scrap of 2×4 to the inside of the table apron next to one of the legs (I added a barrel bolt to both sides, but you only need to add it to the one side when using the lid hinge support.)

Rest the barrel bolt onto the scrap wood. Mark where the bolt hits the leg. Drill a hole into the leg to accept the bolt.

Attach the barrel bolt to the scrap wood with the provided screws.

Sand all parts of the desk starting with 80 grit sandpaper, then 120 and finish with a 220 grit sandpaper.

Add edge banding to the plywood top. You can watch my video below to learn how to finish off plywood edges!

It’s not hard and edge banding is a great way to finish off plywood to make it look like a more expensive board.

Fill any holes or seams with wood putty. Sand and wipe off the desk before staining or painting.

Finishing touches:

I stained my desk with Minwax Dark Walnut. After the stain dried, I added a hand-painted vine border. First, I sketched the design in chalk.

Then I painted the design using a watered-down white chalk paint.

The apron and legs received a mixture of chalk paints in a yellow color. The edges were sanded off to reveal the dark stain beneath.

Finally, the desktop received several coats of General Finishes High Performance water-based topcoat in the flat finish. The legs and painted areas were waxed.

Add a handle to the center of the desk apron if you want to be able to transport it easily.

This table can be used anywhere! It’s sturdy, but doesn’t take up much space.

I can fold it up and bring it inside and work in front of the TV. Or it can be used as a small sewing table, crafting table, or just an extra buffet in the dining room.

When I’m done, it folds up and stores behind a bench or sofa.

If you like this tutorial, be sure to pin it for future use or to share! Cheers!

I’d love to hear if you make your own folding laptop and writing table!

October 3, 2020/12 Comments/by Brittany Bailey

Crafts, DIY, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Home Decor, Home Office, kids art, Kids Room, pottery barn inspiration, spray paint, Tutorial, Uncategorized

DIY Kid’s Craft Table

Have the kids taken over your kitchen table or island? Need somewhere to let the kids get creative? Today I am going to show you how to make a simple DIY kid’s craft table (or desk). Let’s get building.

DIY Kid’s Desk and Craft Table

If your children are going to be home this fall for distance learning or you just want a spot they can call their own, then it is time to get a space ready for them!! This DIY Kid’s Craft Table is the perfect size for whatever your child will need and it is small enough to fit in a spare corner in your home. Let’s make it!

I made this particular table for a client and it measures 30”h x 43”w x 23”d but you can modify these measurements to fit your needs. Of course, the quality of lumber you use is your choice but I used clear pine from my local big box store because it paints better than using common pine boards. It may be more expensive but the boards tend to be straighter, it saves time on sanding, and I feel it yields a better-finished product. It doesn’t matter what wood you use as long as you love it.

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2- 2 x 2 x 8
2- 1 x 4 x 8
1- 3/4” x 2 x 4
1 roll iron-on edge banding
1/4” thick piece of scrap
Wood glue
1 ¼” pocket-hole screws
Paint or stain
Topcoat

Tools:

Cut list and pocket-hole placement:

4- 2×2 @ 29 ¼”
2- 1×4 @ 38” (3 pocket-holes in each end)
2- 1×4 @ 18” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
1- 1×4 @ 19” (2 pocket-holes in each end)
3/4”x 43”x 23” birch plywood

Step 1: Sand table components

I know it seems odd to start with this step but trust me when I tell you it is much easier to sand these boards before they are in place. Depending on how rough your lumber is, begin using 60-80 grit sandpaper and incrementally work your way up to 220 grit sandpaper. I chose to use clear pine found at my local big box store so I was able to start with 120 grit sandpaper, which cut down my sanding time. This makes the extra money spent, well worth it!

Step 2: Assemble both table sides

Sandwich one 1 x 4 x 18” (apron) board between two 2 x 2 x 29 ¼” (leg) boards. Pocket-holes should be facing up.
To add a little detail, place a ¼” piece of scrap beneath the 1×4 board to inset it slightly. This will create a shallow reveal looks nice and also gives you a little grace because now the three boards don’t have to be flush to the same surface perfectly.
Clamp the legs and apron boards together and join them using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Repeat these steps for the other side of the table.

Step 3: Attach the front and back table aprons

With both side components standing on their sides sandwich a 1 x 4 x 38” (apron) board between them, again placing a ¼” board beneath the apron to inset it slightly.
Align the top of the 1×4 with the top of the side components.
Clamp and attach using wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket screws.
Carefully flip the piece over and repeat the above steps to attach the second 1 x 4 x 38” apron board.

Step 4: Attach center support

Attach the center support using wood glue and pocket screws between the two 1 x 4 x 38” boards centered in the middle.

Step 5: Clean up

With a putty knife or chisel gently remove any glue squeeze out and sand smooth.

Step 6: Edge banding

Once the plywood top is cut to size you will need to edge band to cover up the unsightly edges. I won’t go over all of the steps here but if you are new to edge banding please check out this tutorial on How to Finish Raw Plywood Edges.

Step 7: Finish

Time to paint or stain and topcoat!! My client wanted this piece painted white, so I chose a premium latex paint and used a water-based topcoat to protect the paint and prevent yellowing of the finish in the future.

Step 8: Attach the top

Place the tabletop on a flat surface (bottom side up) and center the base over the top upside down.
This plan allows for a 1” overhang of the top on all sides of the table base.
Using the pocket-holes that are shown in the diagrams below, attach the top with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

- Note: Normally I would not recommend attaching a tabletop using pocket screws IF that top were made of solid wood because of wood’s tendency to expand and contract. However, this top is made of plywood and the amount of expansion and contraction that will happen over time is negligible and should not affect the structure of the table base. If you are uncomfortable using pocket-holes to attach the top then feel free to attach it in some other way, such as with figure-8 fasteners or Z-clips.

Flip it over and admire your handy work!! Isn’t this DIY Kid’s Craft Table adorable?!

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

If you enjoyed this tutorial and are looking for other cute ideas for kid’s desk or craft table check out these two fun projects. Both of these could be great projects you could do with the kids to keep the fun going.

Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder

Creating a Chalkboard Desktop.

August 19, 2020/2 Comments/by In Her Garage

Build It, cabinet, DIY, DIY tools, DIYCourage, DIYLikeaBoss, Do It Yourself, Tool Tutorials, Uncategorized

How to Make a Half-Lap Joint with a Miter Saw

How to Make a DIY Half Lap Joint using Miter Saw

Want to add another joint to your woodworking skillset? Today I’ll show you how to create a simple DIY half-lap joint with your miter saw.

Half-Lap Joint with your Miter Saw

Hi! It’s Kristen from In Her Garage and I am going to teach you an easy way to create a half-lap joint to add to your DIY skill set. The half-lap joint is versatile and super strong.

Wondering what a half-lap joint even is? Put simply, a half-lap joint is a joint between two boards that are halved together so that a flush surface results. Check out the pictures below for two popular ways half-lap joints are used. Best of all this joint only requires wood glue to hold it together.

I have used this style of joint when a butt joint or pocket-hole joint isn’t possible. It’s helpful to use when working with thinner material or in tight spaces. Let’s learn how to make a half-lap joint!

Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

2 boards to be joined together
2 sacrificial boards for use at the miter saw
Wood glue
120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

Sliding miter Saw with depth stop

Instructions:

Step 1: Mark your boards

Place your boards over one another in the orientation they will be joined.
Mark out the width of the overlap on each board.

Step 2: Set up your miter saw

Place a sacrificial board against the miter saw fence, with the face flat (as seen in the video below). This board should be flat and square. You will need this because you are not cutting through the board to be used in your project and thus the miter saw will not cut the back portion of the board you are cutting. The scrap piece will push your board out so that the miter saw will cut halfway down from the front to the back. If you do a test cut without the scrap board you’ll see what I mean.
Next, use your saw’s depth stop control and adjust the depth to cut approximately halfway down into the first board to be cut. Use a scrap piece of wood for this step to make sure you have the depth you want before using the board that will be used in your project.
Adjust the miter angle at this time as well if you are not planning to cut at 90 degrees.

Step 3: Cut the first board

With your depth set and scrap board in place make your first cut into your board. Make sure you are minding which side of the marked lines your blade needs to cut!
After the first cut move the board slightly (about 1/8”) and create another cut right next to the first.
Continue moving and cutting until you have created all the cuts needed between the two width lines you marked out previously.
Dry fit the second board into the first to make sure the width is correct and make any necessary adjustments.
Use sandpaper to smooth out any ridges left from the saw.

Step 4: Cut the second board

If you cut exactly halfway through the first board then you will not have to do any adjustments for this step and you can cut the second board exactly as you cut the first.
But, if you are like me you didn’t cut the first board perfectly and the depth will need to be adjusted slightly for the second board. This is simple.
The cut for the second board will need to be the depth of what you DIDN’T cut from the first board. Use a piece of scrap to fine-tune this depth before cutting the board you will use.
Now that the depth has been set for the second board you can cut the half-lap into the board just like you did for the first. Again, being mindful of which side of the lines your blade is cutting.
Dry fit the two boards together to be sure you have a snug fit and the boards create a flat surface.

Step 5: Glue together

Apply glue to both lap joints in each board and fit them together.
Apply downward pressure to the joint and allow the glue to dry.

There you have it!! You have expanded your talents and created a very strong half-lap joint for your next project. Nice work!

Pin this graphic for future reference:

New to using the miter saw or need a refresher? Check out the Pretty Handy Girl’s How to Use a Miter Saw tutorial to get you all caught up!

Hi! I’m Kristen, from In Her Garage, and I am a self-taught woodworker and DIY fanatic from Minnesota where I live with my husband and our two daughters. Between being a wife, mom, and registered nurse, I try to make as much time for DIY as possible. My love for building came after our family built our current home in 2015. After we moved in, we needed furniture, and instead of spending massive amounts of money to order the items we wanted I decided that I would build them myself. I started with a buffet table plan from the fabulous Ana-white and quickly set out to remodel my entire home office.

Since then I have started a side business building furniture for the people in my community. I love hearing my clients talk about the pieces they wish they had whether it be a rustic buffet table, a one drawer side table, or a toy box and then making it a reality for them. While starting my small business it made perfect sense that I would document my building journey so I simultaneously launched the In Her Garage blog and I love sharing my plans, tips, and tricks.

I am so glad that you found me here and please feel free to connect with me on Pinterest, Instagram, and Facebook to see what I am working on right now.

Check out my latest blog post about building a DIY Folding Craft/Sewing Table! This table is large enough for any craft project but folds down when you don’t need it. Perfect for anyone with a small space but large crafting ambitions!

July 15, 2020/0 Comments/by In Her Garage

Decorating, DIY, Home Decor, Uncategorized

33 Bathroom Upgrades You Can DIY

Does your bathroom need a little sprucing up? If you’re anything like me, you get a little tired of the same boring thing year after year. The 33 projects in this collection are inspiration for how you can DIY Bathroom Upgrades!

Bathroom Upgrades You Can DIY

If your how was built with builder-grade materials and you’re looking for ways to upgrade different things to make it more personalized and beautiful, today is the day to get some inspiration to make a change in your bathroom. The good news is these are all projects that you can put together with just a few supplies and a little time and elbow grease.

Create more beautiful storage in your bathroom with these easy bathroom shelves.

Provide a little privacy without blocking light by applying this privacy film to your bathroom windows.

Build this DIY bathroom wall cabinet to create another place to store toiletries and towels.

Learn how to install cement tiles on your own so you can create the floor of your dreams!

If you need a place to hang some towels, build this simple rustic ladder for your bathroom.

Build a simple storage box to put bathroom essentials out of sight using only ONE BOARD!

Another option for towel storage is this rolling bathroom towel rack; perfect if you don’t have ample wall space.

Learn how to install and update cabinet hardware for a more modern look to your bathroom.

Make this beautiful and useful wooden bath tray that will hold your phone while you bathe. It’s great decor too!

Update your bathroom with customized towel hooks rather than rods.

If you’re looking to change your mirror, consider learning how to hang a frameless oval mirror.

If you like the rustic look, consider updating with unique things like this branch towel bar.

A oyster shell mirror is perfect way to upgrade a coastal themed bathroom.

Add a beautiful rustic and warm touch by planking one wall in your bathroom.

Install a beautiful backsplash inside a cabinet or on a wall.

Repurpose an old window to update your bathroom with an awesome bathroom storage cabinet.

Upgrade your plain walls with DIY shiplap in your powder room.

If you’re looking for more organization, update your bathroom drawer storage with DIY drawer dividers.

Give your bathroom walls an upgrade by installing beadboard on the bathroom walls.

Decorative industrial shelves are the perfect upgrade for your bathroom.

This stick-on bathroom mirror frame makes such a huge impact and you can absolutely make it yourself.

Build your own small DIY bathroom vanity so you have exactly what you need.

Add built-in dividers to your bathroom drawer to improve organization.

Upgrade your old cabinets by doing a vanity makeover with paint!

If you love modern rustic decor, these DIY bracket shelves would be a perfect bathroom upgrade!

Change up your bathroom by painting a faux concrete wall and making it look more customized.

Apply floral wallpaper to one bathroom wall to make a huge visual impact without overwhelming.

Build an awesome wooden DIY rustic mirror frame to upgrade a simple mirror.

Add some simple storage by installing creative organization to the walls.

Want to change your floors without tiling? Use floor stickers to update your bathroom flooring with a whole new look.

Apply tile to the walls in your bathroom for a beautiful, classy upgraded look.

Use stencils on the bathroom walls to create a faux wallpaper look.

Create simple wall frames to upgrade those plain walls and make them prettier.

Give your bathroom a whole new look by applying these beautiful patterned tile stickers.

I hope you loved these ideas and found inspiration on how you can create something similar for your home. Comment and let me know what you think! Which is your favorite?

Hi, I’m Sheri from Hazel + Gold Designs. Here are a few fun stats about me: I ~~like~~ love chocolate and peanut butter (together of course.) If you like stats, I have been crocheting for about 16 years, crafting for 20, and woodworking for about 4 years. I found a passion in making and being creative and began documenting my projects online at Hazel + Gold Designs.

When not working on projects, I enjoy spending time with my husband, four children, perfect dog, and ornery cat. You can find me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.

Read all of Sheri’s tutorials.

~Find more of Sheri’s projects here ~

February 5, 2020/1 Comment/by Sheri

Uncategorized

Tour of the 2020 HGTV Dream Home in Hilton Head – Part 2

Welcome back to part 2 of the 2020 HGTV Dream Home tour. I hope you enjoyed seeing the kitchen, living room, foyer, and master suite on Monday. Today I have photos of the mudroom/laundry room, the upstairs bedrooms, lounge room, and the backyard. Bryan Patrick Flynn is the interior designer for this dream home and he did a fantastic job of combining bright colors, natural elements, and classic style.

(Disclosure: I’m not sponsored by Cabinets to Go, the HGTV Dream Home sweepstakes is sponsored by them. I was provided with an invitation to tour the home and Cabinets to Go paid my hotel expenses.) There’s so much to see, let’s get started!

Tour of the 2020 HGTV Dream Home in Hilton Head – Part 2

When I left you on Monday we had just finished touring the master suite. Let’s head over to the opposite side of the house.

Down the hallway from the foyer you get a peek into the combined laundry room/mudroom space. Like the rest of the house, art and sculptural installations line every wall. These vintage oars warm the cool blue walls. Want to know a secret? You can make your own faux vintage boat oars for next to nothing by following my tutorial here.

On the opposite side of the hallway are these beautiful paintings by Felicia Higdon, a local painter.

And now you’ve reached one of my favorite spots in the house. Although it’s a hard-working room, this mudroom and laundry room is bathed in sunlight and has a view of the marsh teaming with wildlife. I could see my kids hanging out at this table playing games while us parents talk about “boring stuff” in the living room area.

The wall color in the mudroom/laundry room is Restful HGSW2285 by Sherwin Williams

In the corner of the room is a large dog crate, but I bet you could remove the spindles and add some shelving for additional storage if you don’t have a dog (or your dog refuses to be crate-trained. Ahem…Bandit!)

On the other side of the door is the laundry center. The cabinets are from the Chelsea Linen line from Cabinets to Go.

Across from the washer and dryer is a deep utility sink that doubles as a dog washing station (if you have a small dog. LOL.)

The unexpected elegance in this room is a showstopping tile backsplash wall that climbs to the ceiling. I’m thinking my laundry room needs a tile backsplash like this or at least a fun wallpaper that emulates this look. After all, my laundry room is the first thing you see when you come in our side door.

Here are the mudroom/laundry room sources for you. (I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Now that we’ve seen downstairs, let’s head upstairs to see the two bedrooms, the lounge room, and more!

At the top of the stairs is a little game area and through the open doorway awaits a multifunctional (aka lounge) room for relaxing and TV binge-watching.

The vintage deconstructed airplane wing is amazing, is it not? I bet that was an exciting find during a long antiquing excursion. It makes me want to go junking right now!

The wall color in this room is Gristmill Greige HGSW2485 by Sherwin Williams.

If you saw anything you liked, here are links to the sources in the lounge room:

Just off the multifunctional room is an elevated porch area. If I could, I’d hang out here all day and all night.

The circular patio seating is beautiful, but give me a hanging daybed here and I foresee lots of naps and relaxation on this porch.

Back inside are two more bedrooms. This island-themed room has bright colorful walls while maintaining a breezy coastal vibe. The entire room (from walls to ceiling) is painted Restful HGSW2285 by Sherwin Williams.

Normally I’m not a fan of print fabric headboards, but this tropical frond upholstered headboard works beautifully in this room.

Want to create your own tropical retreat? Here are the sources for you:

Across the hall from the tropical bedroom is a coordinating bathroom. The room functions perfectly inside a standard five-foot wide bathroom space.

I enjoyed the textural effect created by using different size tiles that share the same color palette.

The Metro Gloss White vanity is a beautiful shiny and sleek white cabinet from Cabinets to Go. It surprised me the same driftwood cabinets weren’t chosen in this room, but the white vanity continues the white trend in here.

The loft connecting the two bedrooms is furnished with serious competition in mind! You’re sure to pull up a chair for a board game or challenge your kid to a game of foosball!

The second bedroom upstairs is monochromatic with beautiful shades of blue. The color is Mint to Be HGSW2327 by Sherwin Williams. You might recognize this color from the kitchen ceiling. I feel like the color is more blue than mint, but no one asked me.

The vibe in this room is purely restful and calm.

Here are the sources for this beautiful blue-toned bedroom:

The second bathroom upstairs is tiled in beautiful navy subway tile. Although the ceiling is sloped, the room still feels big enough to house a gaggle of sandy kids.

Like the navy subway tiles? Here’s the blue tile source.

The Finian Blue HGSW2384 by Sherwin Williams paint color complements the tile nicely.

I think I mentioned before how much art is in the dream home. By far, my favorite art is the graphic paintings by Colleen Elizabeth.

This completes the tour of the rooms upstairs. Want to head out back for the crowning jewel of this property?

The back deck spans the full length of the house and offers a commanding view of the pool and marsh beyond.

The floating spheres light up at night! I bet that would be a sight to see.

You’ll never run out of places to sit, eat, and relax with three seating areas on the back porch and more in the back yard.

But, wait, there’s one more area to chillax. The spot that called to me was near the water’s edge. As the wind swayed, the hammocks gently rocked in the breeze. How could you walk away from this beautiful setting?

Sadly it’s time to leave, but I enjoyed taking the tour with you. What was your favorite room? You do know you can enter to win this HGTV Dream Home in Hilton Head, SC? Enter to win this house by entering daily here. The last day to enter is February 19th, 2020. Good luck!

Disclosure: I’m not sponsored by Cabinets to Go, the HGTV Dream Home sweepstakes is sponsored by them. I was provided with an invitation to tour the home and Cabinets to Go paid my hotel expenses.

January 31, 2020/1 Comment/by Brittany Bailey